Sunrise Seaswim Hat

Is there a better way to celebrate Esther's 30th Birthday than taking a dip in the North Devon sea as the sun makes it's first appearance of the day?  Well yes it turns out there is; knitting a hat ready for when your little hot water bottle (I mean bump) makes it's first appearance of the day whilst everyone else goes in for their second dip of the day!  A simple repetative pattern keeps you on your toes but can easily be done alongside other distractions.  And the use of two yarns makes it that little bit thicker and warmer for an approaching winter baby.

The pattern is to fit a small newborn or larger preemi.  To make suitable for a larger newborn cast on an additional 7 stitches and depending on your guage use 4.5mm needles, continuing for 4 1/2 - 5 inches before decreasing

Using DK yarn and 4mm needles...

Cast on 56 stitches in contrast colour [CC] and join into round (14 on each needle if using DPNs)

Rounds 1-4: K2 P2 rib
Round 5: change to main colour [MC] and K2TOG, K5 ** K1[CC], K6[MC] repeat from ** to end and using first stitch of next round as final stitch for this pattern
Rounds 6 onwards: K5[MC] P1[MC] K1[CC] repeat to end and using first stitch of next round for the next 4 inches (you are purling on the contrast stitch of the row below, then adding in a constrast knit stitch nextdoor to that - this is the main pattern)

Depending how many rows you do will depend where you are in the spiral pattern when you start the decreasing.

Round 29ish: Knit as pattern until first [CC] where it is K2TOG.  Then repeat K4[MC] P1 [MC] K2TOG [CC] to end.
Round 30: Knit as pattern but K4[MC] P1[MC] K1[CC]
repeat these two rounds three more times (with one less main colour knit stitch after each decrease obviously).
Using just [MC] K2TOG to end and thread yarn through remaining 8 stitches.

And voila!  You might need to give a good tug from side to side to even out the coloured raised stitches.

Kensington Steeked Pot

Isn't it funny how fashions change.  Three years ago when I started knitting tea pot cosies I'd have thought how old fashioned this one looked and not touched it.  Now I was so keen to create something that really looked 'knitted' and had block colour texture I couldn't actually find anything 'old' enough!

I'm not a fan of most methods to make the two holes for tea pot cosies, I don't like joining in yarns and leaving stitches on stitch holders, or doing big amounts of awkwardly shaped seaming.  By using steeks and straight edges with a draw string this one avoids that.  There is a need to weave in ends due to the colour knitting but other than that, your cast off/on ends are used to crochet it together and so really minimal finishing.

Using DK yarn and 4mm needles...

Colour A
Cast on 80, leaving a very long cast on tail
rows 1-4: 2x2 rib
Colour B
row 5: knit
row 6: purl
Colour C
row 7: K2, sl1pw, (K3, sl1pw) rep K1
row 8: K1, (YF sl1pw,YB K3) rep K2
Colour B
row 9: K4, (slpw K3) rep
row 10: P3 sl1pw rep P4
row 11: knit
row 12: purl
Colour A
repeat rows 5-6
Colour D
repeat rows 7-8
Colour A
repeat rows 9-12

Repeat these rows 5-12 three more time in any colour combinations, I maintained my B&C and A&D pair swaps.

Colour A
row 41: K2, K2tog, rep
row 42: purl
Colour D
row 43: repeat row 7
row 44: repeat row 8
Colour A
row 45: repeat row 9
row 46: repeat row 10
Colour B
row 47: knit
row 48: purl
row 49: (K1, YO, K2tog) repeat to end
row 50: purl
rows 51 & 52: knit/purl
Colour A
repeat rows 5-6
Colour D
repeat rows 7-8
Colour A
row 57: (KFB 3 times, K1) repeat to end
row 58: purl
Cast off by K2tog, slip stitch from right hand needle to left hand needle, K2tog and repeat to end.  Leave a very long cats off tail.


Knit a 3 stitch i-cord for the tie (in Colour C), it will need to be about 15 inches.  This will thread through the holes created by the yarn overs and pull the cosy in around the tea pot lid.


Now here comes the interesting part... steeks.  It is all based around the columns of stitches 40, 41 and 42 - the needle is showing column 41 here.

Using a 3.5mm crochet hook, using Colour A make a slip knot and place onto the hook.  Stick your hook through the right leg of stitch 41 in row 7 and the left leg of stitch 40 as below.

Wrap the yarn over the hook, and pull yarn through the two Colour C stitches.

Wrap yarn over the hook again and pull yarn through the two Colour A stitches.
Repeat, sticking hook through the right leg of stitch 41 in row 8 and the left leg of stitch 40 as below

Keep going

When you get to row 22, or the 4th set of knit bumps turn your work and continue in the same way but this time stitching through the left leg or stitch 41 and the right leg of stitch 42.

When you get back to where you started, secure the yarn by doing a slip stitch into the starting stitch, and pull yarn through the last loop to secure.

Now, you can take the scissors to your piece of work (yikes!).  If you push down on your two lines of crochet you will see a 'ladder' between them rather than stitches.

This is what you cut - the rungs between the two crochet lines.

And this is where your opening for the spout will be.

Now you will also need to join the two edges/sides between rows 1-8 and from rows 58-27, this can be by crochet like the steeking or matress stitch, which ever suits you.  Then crochet like the steek around the edge between these two, encasing the hole.

Weave in your loose ends, and thread the i-cord through the yarn overs.

And there you go.

Teeny Tiny Pixie Mits

For a preemi or very newborn, some little pixie style mits to keep hands warm or face scratch free. If new hands are so teeny tiny the mits dont stay on then lace some ribbon or icord through the eyelets.

Using a slim DK (you know, the ones that say they are but you really wonder how!) and 3.5mm needles...

Cast on 20
rows 1-6 - K1 P1 to end
row 7 - K2TOG YO to end
row 8 - purl
row 9-14 - stocking stitch
row 15 - K3 K2TOG to end (if now you realise you forgot the last YO on row 7 then end with a K2 K2TOG instead!)
row 16 - purl
row 17 - repeat row 15
row 18 - purl
row 19 - K2 K2TOG to end
row 20 - purl
row 21 - knit
row 22 - purl
Thread yarn through remaining stitches and mattress stitch the seam.

She Sells Sea Shells on the Sea Shore

Another 'mini' that is for a project on its way (watch this space) but others may want to use for a multitude of things.

Using DK yarn and 2.5mm needles....

For the larger shell...
Cast on 21
row 1 - knit
row 2 - P1 [K3, P1] repeat to end
row 3 - K1 [P3, K1] repeat to end
row 4 - P1 [K3, P1] repeat to end
row 5 - K1 [sl1p, P1, PSSO, P1, K1] repeat to end
row 6 - P1 [K2, P1] repeat to end
row 7 - K1 [sl1p, P1, PSSO, K1] repeat to end
row 8 - P1 [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 9 - K1, [K2TOG] repeat to end
row 10 - P1, slip 4 onto cable needle
wrap yarn around the 4 stitches on cable needle counter clockwise three times
slip back onto needle and P1
row 11 - knit
row 12 - P1, M1P, purl, M1P, P1
row 13 - [K2, KFB] repeat to end, while casting off

For the smaller shell...
Cast on 13
row 1 - knit
row 2 - P1 [K2, P1] repeat to end
row 3 - K1 [P2TOG, K1] repeat to end
row 4 - P1 [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 5 - K1, SSK, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K2TOG, K1
row 6 - P1, sl1, P2TOG, PSSO, P1
wrap yarn around the 3 stitches on needle counter clockwise twice
row 7 - K1, KFB, K1
row 8 - P2, M1P, P2 while casting off

Now as your most likely use for these is applique, then don't bother weaving in the ends but use them to sew onto whatever they are going on.

Waffled Wheat Cushion

To sooth away those winter aches and pains why not make your own wheat cushion so you know what natural goodness is in it.  Using a very sim[ple six row repeat waffle stitch to give texture and warmth.  A perfect present for the festive period.

Using 125g of 12ply wool* (I used Twilleys freedom spirit) and 4mm needles...

Cast on 40
K2 P2 rib for 6 rows
row 7 - purl
row 8 - knit
rows 9 and 11 - K3 P2 to end
rows 10 and 12 - K2 P3 to end

rows 13-78 repeat rows 7-12 eleven times

switch to stockinette for 15 inches

rows 79 and 81 - K3 P2 to end

rows 80 and 82 - K2, P3 to end

row 83 - purl

row 84 - knit

repeat six more times

rows 120-121 - K2 P2 rib twice
row 122 - K2 P2 three times, YO K2TOG, P2 K2 three times, YO P2TOG, K2 P2 three times.
row 123-124 - K2 P2 rib twice
row 125 - K2 P2 while casting off in rib pattern.

Matress stitch the waffle to the stockinette on each side to create the little envelope.  Position the buttons on the first ribbing, using the holes on the second ribbing to line up and sew on.

Sew up two cloth rectangles of 100% cotton* about 15 inches x 5 inches and turn inside out (with as small a gap as you can sanely manage) to make the cushion liner.  It may be best to wait until you have completed the knitting and measure direct if your guage is often a bit squiffy.  Using a funnel pour in about 1250g of buckwheat and pearl barley, you could also add lavender.  Hand sew the gap tightly and your cushion is ready to be put in its knitted case.

Now, simply pop him in the microwave for 1 minute.  Some advise also putting in a glass of water at the same time to stop the wheat drying out too much.  Drape over your aches and pains and warm them away.

* 100% wool or 100% cotton will be fine in your microwave.  Anything acryllic will melt and leave you with a big big mess.  Please choose your materials carefully.  Also consider buttons - don't go for metal ones!

Manly Mini Scarf

For that man who doesn't want a special hand knitted scarf....

My partner wears a scrappy little thing for work and always gets very very cold outside in thermals and umpteen jumpers. Decided it was time he had something to keep the neck properly warm but still retain his manliness. Its a manly version of a cowl, the ribbing providing practical heat retention and the shortness meaning no long flimsy ends to have to tuck in anywhere.  None of the ribbed scarf patterns I found offered stripe options and so decided to tackle it the other way round and do horizontal rather than vertical. I wanted to make the hole without interrupting the colour trail of the wool (vertical ribbed scarves make you leave half the stitches on a neelde and do the other half before returning back and then joining - this would be havock with self striping/varigated yarn). So my horizontal option lets you make the hole via cast on/of without interrupting the colour flow and keeping it all as one part.

Two main stitches used here; stocking (knit right side, purl wrong side) and reverse stocking (purl right side, knit wrong side) in quartuplets of rows, to give a mock ribbing effect equivalent to K4, P4, but it ends up looking softer as the purl takes dominance instead. [right side are odd rows, wrong side are even rows]

Using DK and 4mm needles (I advise using circular to fit stitches on)...

Cast on 105 in blue
rows 1-4 - stocking
rows 5-8 - reverse stocking
rows 9-12 - stocking
rows 13-16 - reverse stocking
change to grey
rows 17-20 - stocking
rows 21-24 - reverse stocking
rows 25-28 - stocking
rows 29-32 - reverse stocking
change to blue
rows 33-36 - stocking
rows 37-39 - reverse stocking
row 40 - cast off 15 stitches, knit 90
row 41 - knit 90, turn needles and cast on 15 stitches
rows 42-44 - stocking
rows 45-48 - reverse stocking
change to grey
rows 49-52 - stocking
rows 53-56 - reverse stocking
rows 57-60 - stocking
rows 61-64 - reverse stocking
change to blue
rows 64-68 - stocking
rows 69-72 - reverse stocking
rows 73-76 - stocking
rows 77-80 - reverse stocking and cast off

In grey pick up 22 stitches along right hand edge (the bit that splits into two sections)... 2 stitches from each wrong side 'rib', and one at the end of the each section (which will be from right side 'rib').
rows 81-84 - stocking
rows 85-88 - reverse stocking
rows 89-92 - stocking
rows 93-96 - reverse stocking
change to blue
rows 97-100 - stocking
rows 101-104 - reverse stocking
rows 105-108 - stocking
rows 109-112 - reverse stocking and cast off


In grey pick up 22 stitches along left hand edge... 2 stitches from each right side rib plus the first and last stitch.  Follow rows 81-104.

Patterns I love that helped give me some inspiration to put this pattern together include:

• Knitomatic.com Easy Mobius Cowl
• Nebula Designs Ribbed Mini-Scarf

Tree Trunk Tea Cosy (for stainless steel pots)

I struggled to find a single pattern for a steel tea pot (those 'catering' rather than pretty style types).  Rather than getting Gran to change her habit of a lifetime, I created a pattern to fit the cylindrical rather than typical sphere shape for her.  Thus the tree trunk tea cosy!  This is for a 5" diameter, 4 1/2" high pot (3-4 cups).

This cosy is made up of two flat pieces, a left and right side of the cosy, which get joined at the top in the round for 1/4" before the rounds reducing to create the flat top.  I recommend using circular needles all the way through and then you can keep flat 'left' on the wire whilst you knit flat 'right' and then easily join together into the round without dropping stitches etc.  There will be a short 1" matress stitch join needed at the bottom where the handle is, and a 3" mattress stitch join needed at the bottom on the spout side.

This pattern is mainly suited to a semi-experienced knitter who enjoys improvising.  However, it can be simplified for a less expeirenced knitter - but it will look more angluar and less knarled.  If the below talk of knots and thicker/thinner lines terrifies you, I have written the base version here, you will only need to know PSSO, ribbing, matress stitch, knitting in the round, K2TOG, and changing colour.  You can adorn it with self knitted embelishments or craft shop items to disguise as necessary!  I haven't put any photos up of how different it looks compared to the improvised version as I haven't had time yet to make it twice!

All versions of this follow the base pattern as its starter.  The basic concept for the bark look of this tree trunk cosy is that the bark is formed by 3x3 rib to give it its lines.  Now in terms of making it look tree-bark-y (technical term huh!) you have two options depending how confident you feel:

• Keep it simple, just 3x3 straight ribs.  For the basic knitter.
• Play around yourself within the rough rules of 3x3 rib and add in thicker/thinner lines or knots as below.

Ok, so to aid understanding of my instructions; for each set of 3x knits I call this a 'rib', 3s or the dominant stripe, and for each set of 3x knit and 3x purl I call this a 'rib set' or 6s (dominant stripe and its partner recessive stripe).  As 95% of the bark is knitted flat, when mentioning knits and purls I refer to right side or wrong side - if for that last quarter inch in the round you are keen to continue thicker/thinner lines or knots then adapt the wrong side row instructions for knitting in the round (swap knits for purls and vice versa).

Thicker/thinner lines 

Work in pairs of changes - for every increase you do in one 'rib', you are best to do a decrease in the next 'rib'.  For the first row (right side) KFB into the middle K of the 'rib', P3 and then K1 K2TOG for the next 'rib' and P3 again.  Then for 3 (or an odd number of rows) work with this rib set as a 4x3x2x3 rather than 3x3x3x3.  Return to the normal 3x3 (on right side) by K2TOG in the middle two K of the 'rib' and KFB into the first K of the next knit 'rib'.  You can always make this a more dominant change of thickness by adding more KFBs and/or K2TOG and ammending the ?x3x?x3 rib set as appropriate.



Knots 

For a knot you will insert a recessive 'stripe' into the middle of a dominant stripe and then reduce it.  The size of the 'stripe' can vary and will always start with two stitches in row 2 and increase, before decreasing back to row 2 size and then removing the 'stripe' all together - this will make it a circle or knot (hence rcessive 'stripe' in inverted commas).

So, for basic small knot, in the 3 'rib' subsitute the following rows for the simple 3, starting on a wrong side row:
row i - P1, PFB, P1
row ii - K1, KFPB PFKB, K1
row iii - P2, KFB KFB, P2
row iv - K2, P4, K2
row v - P2, K4, P2
row vi - K2, P2TOG P2TOG, K2
row vii - P2, K2TOG, P2
row viii - K1, s1 K2TOG PSSO, K1
row ix - return to the simple 3












Or you can do a simple blemish by doing a YO K2TOG in the middles of a bunch of knits.

Remember: bark is nobly bobbly and bulges in places - therefore the tea cosy does not need to fit like cling film maintaining the shape of the pot perfectly all round the circumference.  Additional stitches in rows can bulge as you like and bump away from the pot irregularly.  If anything, any mistakes you make not maintaining your regimented 3x3 rib will look better!

Once the tree trunk is knitted, you can start to decorate and adorn as you feel best suited to - knit, crochet, felt, button/bead or shop bought.  I used my ivy leaf cord pattern, instead of weaving in the ends I used those yarns to sew a little stitch to loosely hold onto the cosy, and some grass.  I also placed a curved oak leaf onto the top to disguise the bump of the lid handle.

Why not try for example:

• grass (a 4 stitch icord, decrease to 3 stitch, 2 stitch then cast off to make point on end)
• a variety of crochet flowers,  picot flowers, teeny tiny flowers, or knitted tiny flowers
• oak leaves
• a bunny
• an owl
• spider
• ladybirds
• birds

If you follow the improvise pattern then these cosies are like gem stones - each is a unique product, and natural flaws become more special.  Would love to see the different scenes you come up with!