Beach Hut Tea Cosy

When it's dreary outside, why not put on the kettle and basque in a quintessential British seaside themed cuppa.  Yarn over and knit two together through the back loop ridges create a simple wooden paneling effect on this beach hut tea cosy.

Using DK yarn and 4mm needles...

Front (make 2)

Cast on 33 in contrast colour (turquoise for me)
rows 1-4 - garter stitch
row 5 - change to main colour (pale blue for me) and knit
row 6 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 7 - [K2TOGtbl*] repeat to end
row 8 - purl
repeat rows 5-8 seven more times
row 37 - knit
row 38 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 39 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 31 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (31 stitches remain)
row 40 - P2TOG, P27, SSP
row 41 - SSK, K25, K2TOG
row 42 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 43 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 25 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (25 stitches remain)
row 44 - P2TOG, P21, SSP
row 45 - SSK, K19, K2TOG
row 46 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 47 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 19 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (19 stitches remain)
row 48 - P2TOG, P17, SSP
row 49 - SSK, K15, K2TOG
row 50 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 51 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 13 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (13 stitches remain)
row 52 - P2TOG, P9, SSP
row 53 - SSK, K7, K2TOG
row 54 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 55 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 7 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (7 stitches remain)
row 56 - P2TOG, P3, SSP
row 57 - SSK, K1, K2TOG
row 58 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 59 - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end (3 stitches remain)

Thread yarn through remaining stitches and pull tight.

* if you are struggling to get the needle through the right place, insert right hand needle as if to purl the YO and stitch, rotate over the top of the left hand needle clockwise, and it should sit ready to K2TOGtbl.  I find this circular wrap motion quicker.

Doors (make 4)

Cast on 10 using contrast colour (turquoise for me)
row 1 - knit
row 2 - [P1, sl1p] repeat to end
repeat rows 1 & 2 twelve more times
Cast off knitwise

Back (handle) (make 1)

Cast on 34 in contrast colour (turquoise for me)
rows 1-4 - garter stitch
row 5 - change to main colour (pale blue for me) and knit
row 6 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 7 - [K2TOGtbl*] repeat to end
row 8 - purl
repeat rows 5-7
row 12 - P17, turn leaving remaining 17 stitches on the needle to come back to later
repeat rows 5-8 six more times on those 17 stitches

Leave stitches on needle, cut yarn and return to remaining 17 stitches in row 12 and repeat rows 12 - 36 starting with the purl on wrong side.

row 37 - knit joining back together the two sides in one row
repeat rows 6-7
row 40 - purl and cast off



Back (spout) (make 1)

Cast on 34 in contrast colour (turquoise for me)
rows 1-4 - garter stitch
row 5 - change to main colour (pale blue for me) and knit
row 6 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 7 - [K2TOGtbl*] repeat to end
row 8 - purl
repeat rows 5-7

row 12a - P17, turn leaving remaining 17 stitches on the needle to come back to later
row 13a - K2TOGtbl, K15
row 14a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 15a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 16a - P14, SSP
row 17a - K2TOGtbl, K13
row 18a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 19a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 20a - P12, SSP
row 21a - K2TOGtbl, K11
row 22a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 23a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 24a - P11, PFB
row 25a - KFB, K12
row 26a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 27a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 28a - P13, PFB
row 29a - KFB, K14
row 30a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 31a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 32a - P15, PFB
row 33a - knit
row 34a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 35a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 36a - purl

Leave stitches on needle, cut yarn and return to remaining 17 stitches in row 12 starting with the purl on wrong side continue as below.

row 12b - P17
row 13b - K15, K2TOG
row 14b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 15b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 16b - P2TOG, P14
row 17b - K13, K2TOG
row 18b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 19b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 20b - P2TOG, P12
row 21b - K11, K2TOG
row 22b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 23b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 24b - PFB, P11
row 25b - K12, KFB
row 26b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 27b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 28b - PFB, P13
row 29b - K14, KFB
row 30b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 31b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 32b - PFB, P15
row 33b - knit
row 34b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 35b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 36b - purl


row 37 - knit joining back together the two sides in one row
repeat rows 6-7
row 40 - purl and cast off

Roof (make 1)

Cast on 35
row 1 - [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 2 - [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 3 - [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 4 - knit
row 5 - K2, P1 [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 6 - P2, K1 [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 7 - K2, P1 [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 8 - knit

repeat rows 1-8 four more times, ending on a row 7.

Slide knitting to end of needle and save for later.

Cast on 35 on the same needle as waiting knitting, and repeat pattern above (the wrong side will be reversed).

row 1 - [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 2 - [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 3 - [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 4 - purl
row 5 - P2, K1 [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 6 - K2, P1 [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 7 - P2, K1 [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 8 - knit

repeat rows 1-8 four more times, ending on a row 7.


Put your right sides together facing inwards and use a third needle to do a 3 needle bind off which will create a subtle coping tile.

Make Up
You might find it easiest if you block and starch the pieces (depends how tight and stiff your gauge is).

Sew the two doors onto each front, and put a button as the door handles.  Sew on any other embellishments you have made, such as the life belts or sea shells.

Mattress stitch the sides of the Back(Handle) to the Fronts, and the remaining sides of the fronts to the Back(spout).  This will give you a cube outline (and from my photo you will see why starching might be desired).

Sew roof tiles to edges of hut from the inside.  Star with the diagonal sides and finish with the back spout and handle sides - these will overlap a little bit so don't stitch edge to edge.

Weave in all ends, and voila!

Bridge Coasters

I have named these the Bridge Coasters as they are for my mother and her bridge club, but one could name them the Whist Coasters, Rummie Coasters, or even Snap Coasters!  A series of cables and slip stitches leave a raised pattern, one for each card suit.

Using good old DK wool and 4mm needles for all coasters...

Diamond Drinks Coaster
Cast on 16...

row 1 - knit
row 2 - KFB, K14, KFB (18 stitches)
row 3 - knit
row 4 - KFB, K16, KFB (20 stitches)
row 5 - knit
row 6 - knit
row 7 - knit
row 8 - knit
row 9 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 10 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 11 - K7, c2b, K2, c2f, K7
row 12 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 13 - K6, c2b, K4, c2f, K6
row 14 - K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6
row 15 - K5, c2b, K6, c2f, K5
row 16 - K5, byif, sl1p, byib, K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K5
row 17 - knit
row 18 - K5, byif, sl1p, byib, K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K5
row 19 - K5, c2f, K6, c2b, K5
row 20 - K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6
row 21 - K6, c2f, K4, c2b, K6
row 22 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 23 - K7, c2f, K2, c2b, K7
row 24 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 23 - K8, c2f, c2b, K8
row 24 - K9, byif, sl2p, byib, K9
row 25 - knit
row 26 - knit
row 27 - knit
row 28 - K2TOG, K16, K2TOGtbl (18 stitches)
row 29 - knit
row 30 - K2TOG, K14, K2TOGtbl (16 stitches)
row 31 - knit and cast off

Heart Drinks Coaster
Cast on 16...

row 1 - knit
row 2 - KFB, K14, KFB (18 stitches)
row 3 - knit
row 4 - KFB, K16, KFB (20 stitches)
row 5 - knit
row 6 - knit
row 7 - knit
row 8 - knit
row 9 - knit
row 10 - knit
row 11 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 12 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 13 - K7, c2b, K2, c2f, K7
row 14 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 15 - K6, c2b, K4, c2f, K6
row 16 - K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6
row 17 - K5, c2b, K6, c2f, K5
row 18 - K5, byif, sl1p, byib, K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K5
row 19 - K4, c2b, K8, c2f, K4
row 20 - K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K10, byif, sl1p, byib, K4
row 21 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 22 - K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K3, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K3, byif, sl1p, byib, K4
row 23 - K4, c2f, K1, c2b, K2, c2f, K1, c2b, K4
row 24 - K5, byif, sl1p, P1, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, P1, sl1p, byib, K5
row 25 - knit
row 26 - knit
row 27 - knit
row 28 - K2TOG, K16, K2TOGtbl (18 stitches)
row 29 - knit
row 30 - K2TOG, K14, K2TOGtbl (16 stitches)
row 31 - knit and cast off

Spade Drinks Coaster
Cast on 16...

row 1 - knit
row 2 - KFB, K14, KFB (18 stitches)
row 3 - knit
row 4 - KFB, K16, KFB (20 stitches)
row 5 - knit
row 6 - knit
row 7 - knit
row 8 - knit
row 9 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 10 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 11 - K7, c2b, K2, c2f, K7
row 12 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 13 - K6, c2b, K4, c2f, K6
row 14 - K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6
row 15 - K5, c2b, K6, c2f, K5
row 16 - K5, byif, sl1p, byib, K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K5
row 17 - K4, c2b, K8, c2f, K4
row 18 - K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K10, byif, sl1p, byib, K4
row 19 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 20 - K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K3, byif, sl1p, P2, sl1p, byib, K3, byif, sl1p, byib, K4
row 21* - K4, c2f, K1, c3b, c3f, K1, c2b, K4
row 22 - K5, byif, sl1p, P1, sl2p, byib, K2, byif, sl2p, P1, sl1p, byib, K5
row 23 - knit
row 24 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 25 - K7, c2b, K2, c2f, K7
row 26 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 27 - knit
row 28 - K2TOG, K16, K2TOGtbl (18 stitches)
row 29 - knit
row 30 - K2TOG, K14, K2TOGtbl (16 stitches)
row 31 - knit and cast off

* c3b is slip one onto cable needle and hold to back, knit 2, then knit 1 off cable needle.
   c2f is slip two onto cable needle and hold in front, knit 1, then knit 2 off cable needle.

Clubs Drinks Coaster
Cast on 16...

row 1 - knit
row 2 - KFB, K14, KFB (18 stitches)
row 3 - knit
row 4 - KFB, K16, KFB (20 stitches)
row 5 - knit
row 6 - knit
row 7 - knit
row 8 - knit
row 9 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 10 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 11 - K7, c2b, K2, c2f, K7
row 12 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 13 - K7, c2f, K2, c2b, K7
row 14 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 15 - K5, c2b, c2f, K2, c2b, c2f, K5
row 16 - K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl2p, byib, K6
row 17 - K4, c2b, K8, c2f, K4
row 18 - K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K10, byif, sl1p, byib, K4
row 19 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 20 - K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K3, byif, sl1p, P2, sl1p, byib, K3, byif, sl1p, byib, K4
row 21* - K4, c2f, K1, c3b, c3f, K1, c2b, K4
row 22 - K5, byif, sl1p, P1, sl2p, byib, K2, byif, sl2p, P1, sl1p, byib, K5
row 23 - knit
row 24 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 25 - K7, c2b, K2, c2f, K7
row 26 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 27 - knit
row 28 - K2TOG, K16, K2TOGtbl (18 stitches)
row 29 - knit
row 30 - K2TOG, K14, K2TOGtbl (16 stitches)
row 31 - knit and cast off

Rabbit in the Moonlight Smartphone Case

Called rabbit in the moonlight because the rabbit doesn't stand out as well as I hoped - it's more a mirage of a rabbit (hard to capture on camera). But all the same, I still like the ribbed look. It's based on my Little Owls Smartphone Case using cabling and french knots within a rib repeat.

Using DK wool and 3.5mm needles...

Cast on 32
row 1 - K2, [P4, K4] rep to last two stitches, K2
row 2 - P2, [K4, P4] rep to last two stitches, P2
unless stated, repeat rows 1 on right side & 2 on wrong side

row 5 - K2, P4, c2b, c2f, P4, K4, P4, c2b, c2f, P4, K2
*
row 8 - P2, K4, c2b(p), c2f(p), K4, P4, K4, c2b(p), c2f(p), K4, P2
*
row 11 - K2, P4, c2f, c2b, P4, K4, P4, c2f, c2b, P4, K2
row 12 - P2, K4, sl1, K2, sl1, K4, P4, K4, sl1, K2, sl1, K4, P2
row 13 - K2, P4, K1, P2, K1, P4, K4, P4, K1, P2, K1, P4, K2
row 14 - repeat row 12
*
row 31 - K1, [YO, K2TOG] to end
*
row 38 - cast off following rib pattern

Sew french knots for tail on the 2 rabbits, and then mattress stitch a seam down the side and along bottom using long cast off end.


The idea is to be a snug fit, my phone (Samsung Galaxy Ace) is 11cm x 5cm x 1cm. The ribs are a size to fit a 'chunky' phone (i.e. iPhone 4 square edge rather than 3 curved taper) and nicely edge it, but I'm sure would also fit more slimline models too. Let me know how it looks and fits for other models.

Cream Cooler

By using a cosy on your jug it will either keep your cream cool, or your chocolate sauce hot - multi purpose!! The self striping wool I used has a brown top which I think is perfect for 'hiding' those chocolate sauce spills - have a play round with different wools and see what works for you. By slipping the cable stitches on the wrong side it elongates the stitch and makes it stand out in this pretty lattice.

Use an aran wool about 10 ply (I used Rico Designs Poem however you may want to use one that isn't handwash only) and 4.5mm needles. You will also need two short ribbons.

Cast on 48 (makes 6 diamonds of 8 stitches each)
row 1 - [K3, c2b, K3] rep to end
row 2 - [P3, sl2, P3] rep to end
row 3 - [K2, c2b, c2f, K2] rep to end
row 4 - [P2, sl1, P2, sl1, P2] rep to end
row 5 - [K1, c2b, K2, c2f, K1] rep to end
row 6 - [P1, sl1, P4, sl1, P1] rep to end
row 7 - [c2b, K4, c2f] rep to end
row 8 - [sl1, P6, sl1] rep to end
row 9 - K7, [c2f, K6] rep 3 more times, K1
row 10 - sl1, YO, P2TOG, P4, sl1, [sl1, P6, sl1] rep 3 more times, sl1, P4, P2TOG, YO, sl1 (1st button holes)
row 11 - [c2f, K4, c2b] rep to end
row 12 - [P1, sl1, P4, sl1, P1] rep to end
row 13 - [K1, c2f, K2, c2b, K1] rep to end
row 14 - [P2, sl1, P2, sl1, P2] rep to end
row 15 - [K2, c2f, c2b, K2] rep to end
row 16 - [P3, sl2, P3] rep to end
row 17 - K2, sl1, PSSO, c2b, K3, [K3, c2b, K3] rep 3 more times, K3, c2b, K2TOG, K1
row 18 - P2, sl2, P3, [P3, sl2, P3] rep 3 more times, P3, sl2, P2
row 19 - K1, sl1, PSSO, c2f, K2, [K2, c2b, c2f, K2] rep 3 more times, K2, c2b, K2TOG, K1
row 20 - P1, sl1, P1, sl1, P2, [P2, sl1, P2, sl1, P2] rep 3 more times, P2, sl1, P1, sl1, P1
row 21 - K1, sl1, PSSO, c2f, K1, [K1, c2b, K2, c2f, K1] rep 3 more times, K1, c2b, K2TOG, K1
row 22 - P3, sl1, P1, [P1, sl1, P4, sl1, P1] rep 3 more times, P1, sl1, P3
row 24 - K1, YO, K2TOG, c2f, [c2b, K4, c2f] rep 3 more times, c2b, K2TOG, YO, K1 (2nd button holes)
row 25 - casting off as you go... P4, sl1 [sl1, P6, sl1] rep 3 more times, sl1, P4

Use the cast on tail to join the base with four mattress stitches (or however many it takes to get to base of handle). Weave in the end at the top. Thread ribbon through the button holes and tie in a bow to secure on jug.

I got my jug from a local potter at Yandles 303 Gallery, but it should fit most 350ml milk jugs, you may just need to tweak the mattress stitch join, height of button holes to fit the handle (swap two purls for YO, P2TOG at the beginning and end of the row), and you may also need to mattress stitch at the top of the handle.