North Harding Cowl

Following a random ball purchase on holiday - you know the "ooh that's nice, I have absolutely no ideas what to do with it but I'll get it anyway" - I ended up with one lovely ball of chunky yarn and a desire for knitting a scarf or cowl that all take several balls, so I had to improvise! The cowl will take 30 - 40g of yarn plus tassels if desired.

Using 7mm circular needles and a bulky yarn (I used Louisa Harding Rossetti, or Debbie Bliss Riva)

Cast on 86 stitches
Knit, join into round knitting last stitch together with first stitch
round 2 - purl
round 3 - K1, YO, to end
round 4 - P1, slip YO off needle, to end
round 5 - knit
round 6 - P1, 2YO, to end
round 7 - K1, slip YOs off needle, to end
round 8 - purl
round 9 - K1, YO, to end
round 10 - P1, slip YO off needle, to end
round 11 - knit
round 12 - P2TOG and slip stitch back onto left needle. Repeat until one stitch remains, thread yarn through and pull taught.  This creates a loose cast off.

Wrap around neck twice to wear.  If desired, you  can add tassels, cut 84x 6inch strips of yarn, use 3 to form tassel every 3rd stitch on cast on row (when worn doubled up this will be top row so look double sided).

Ruched Cable Tissue Box Cover

A simple, but textured distinct tissue box cover, to jazz up the functional card box without drawing too much attention to it.  You could match this with the Ruched Cable Brick Doorstop if you want a co-ordinated ruched-room!  I used the same yarn as it worked so well (Wendy Mode a triple helix) but in a different shade as this was for a different room.  The join technique at the top with careful three needle bind off inside out means a seamless item with limited weaving in of ends required.

To fit a square tissue box (4 1/2” W x 4 1/2” D x 5” H).

The pattern could be adapted for a rectangular one, but I haven’t got that far yet!

Using 3.5mm circular needle and DK wool (I used a triple helix for interest)

Cast on 148 placing stitch markers every 37 stitches (optional*) and join into round

rounds 1-4 – K2, P2 rib (ignoring stitch markers)

rounds 5-49 - P4, K12, P4, K12, P4, K1, repeating three more times (stitch markers mark repeats)

except rounds 10, 21, 32 and 43 – P4, 12st-TC, P4, 12st-TC, P4, K1, repeating three more times (stitch markers mark repeats)

Pause at round 49.  This should be the sides of your box done (5 inch)

To make the top requires a bit of magic loop style with sort of short rows… or a sort of knitting that I can’t possibly have invented yet can’t find a name for it.  You will see your stitch markers* show the 4 sides of the box, lets call them A, B, C and D.  

So how do you get this?  Insert a second magic loop, so C is on the wire all by itself between two magic loops and A, B, D are as if on normal knitting needles and partway through a row.
  

This will be your straight rows across the square lid - starting a third of the way across.  You are reverse stockinette knitting to and fro across A as in the photo above, but each row (not round) you need to join it to B and D by starting with a K2TOG or SSP; (the first stitch of A and the first stitch of B) and ending with a SSK or P2TOG (the last stitch of A and the first stitch of D).  This can be quite fiddly with your stitch markers and needing to shuffle them every first and last stitch - if you are good at counting you can skip them, but if you are instead a spatial person it may take you several rows to notice the square and where to join the sides to the main.

So first row, moving the stitch marker, transfer the last stitch of B onto the needle next to A, and SSP then purl 35 more stitches, P2TOG (one from A and one from D) having moved the stitch marker.

Next row, turn your knitting (yes, weird when in magic loop even if double magic loop!).  Moving the stitch marker again, transfer last stitch of D onto the needle next to A, and K2TOG.  Then knit 35 more stitches, and SSK (one from A and one from B) having moved the stitch marker.

And repeat.  A will start to look like a square and B and D will get shorter and shorter.

odd rows will be purl 

even rows will be knit

row 18 – cast off from stitch 13 to stitch 25 (13 stitches total) and continue 11 stitches knitting as normal, SSK the last stitch and one from B

row 19 – purl first 12 stitches as normal (including the SSP), turn your needles and cast on 13 stitches, turning your needles back to then purl last 11 stitches and P2TOG as normal

row 20 onwards continue as before row 18.

row 38 is your final row.  You will need to carefully turn your work inside out (this can be fiddly, don't forget to bring the yarn through with you) and place A on one needle, and C off the magic loop and back onto the other end of the circular needle.  (B and D have all been knitted in so don't remain on the needle).  Use a third needle to do a three needle purl bind off between A and C.

There we go.  Completely seamless and only your starting end to weave in (for the lazy… or your finishing end hidden inside that you can do if pedantic!)

12st-TC (twist cable) means slide 12 stitches onto cable needle, twist clockwise and knit off cable needle loosely.

Munchkin Bobble Hat

I really struggle knitting presents for friends expecting baby boys.  Knitting lends itself to floral cutsie stuff, and for boys all you find is either boring plain-in-blue or tacky Bob-the-Builder style cartoon stuff.  So this is my attempt to get something cute but not feminine into the selection for newborns.  If you err to the side of cartoon stuff then you could use bright colours and turn the bobbles to eyes to make it look alien/monster-ish if you really want.  And if you have a girl, then pink or purple will work just as well!

Using DK wool (I used a slight variegated one – Wendy Peter Pan Raindrop Surprise) and 3.5mm circular needles, and a smidgen of scrap yarn for stuffing…

Cast on 60 stitches in contrast colour and join in the round (magic loop is easiest in my opinion, particularly for switching to the i-cord at the end)

rounds 1-7 - Knit contrast colour

round 8 - Change to main colour (on second round of main colour, slip the first stitch to avoid a jog in the colour – thanks Techknitter!)

rounds 9-35 - Knit a further 26  rounds

round 36 - K4, K2TOG (50 st remain)

round 37 - Knit

round 38 - K3 K2TOG (40 st remain)

round 39 - Knit

round 40 - K2 K2TOG (30 st remain)

round 41 - Knit

round 42 - K1 K2TOG (20 st remain)

round 43 - Knit

round 44 - K2TOG (10 st remain)

round 45 - K2TOG (5 st remain) - you will need to switch from magic loop to 'flat' on this round

rows 46-50  - Knit i-cord for 5 rows

row 51 - KFB (10 st) - switch back to magic loop after this row

round 52 - Knit

round 53 - K1, KFB (15 st)

round 54 - Knit

round 55 - K1, K2TOG (10 st remain)

round 56 - Knit

round 57 - K2TOG (5 st remain) - you will need to switch from magic loop to 'flat' on this round

at this point, put some scrap wool in to ensure the bobble remains round and not deflated

rows 58-62 - Knit i-cord for 5 rows

row 63 - KFB (10 st) - switch back to magic loop after this row

round 64 - Knit

round 65 - Knit
round 66 - K2TOG (5 st remain) - you will need to switch from magic loop to 'flat' on this round

at this point, put some scrap wool in to ensure the bobble remains round and not deflated

row 67 - Knit
row 68 - K2TOG, K1, K2TOG, (3 st remain) then pass stitch 1 and 2 over 3 (1 st remain)
Thread yarn through remaining stitch, and weave in loose ends.

Moon Mobile

Increases and short rows make cute little stuffed crecent moons with added button stars to send little one off to sleep in their own colourful night time sky.

Alongside the different colours of DK wool (a perfect stashbusting project) you will need star buttons (I used really small ones; Trimit Nylon Mini Buttons) in same or contrasting colours, stuffing, 130inch of craft wire, 5x 4inch round dowel, 10x buttons and glue. 

Using DK wool and 4.5mm needles...

Cast on 3
row 1 - K3
row 2 - P3
row 3 - K3
row 4 - P3
row 5 - KFB KFB KFB
row 6 - P6
row 7 - K6
row 8 - P6
row 9 - KFB KFB KFB K3
row 10 - P9
row 11 - K8 W&T
row 12 - P8
row 13 - K6 W&T
row 14 - P6
row 15 - K4 W&T
row 16 - P4
row 17 - K2 W&T
row 18 - P2
row 19 - K4 (picking up the W&T on stitch 3), W&T
row 20 - P4
row 21 - K6 (picking up the W&Ts on stitch 5), W&T
row 22 - P6
row 23 - K8 (picking up the W&Ts on stitch 7), W&T
row 24 - P8
row 25 - K9 (picking up the W&Ts on stitch 9)
row 26 - P9
row 27 - K2TOG K2TOG K2TOG K3
row 28 - P6
row 29 - K6
row 30 - P6
row 31 - K2TOG K2TOG K2TOG
row 32 - P3
row 33 - K3
row 34 - P3 casting off

W&T means wrap and turn and is a way of making sure the short rows don't create holes in your knitting, see purlbee for a good tutorial

Make two sides per moon in the same colour (6 moons, 12 sides in total for the whole mobile in a variety of colours).

These will look almost triangular when flat, but once stuffed lightly and 3D they take on a more crescent appearance (they will look triangular again if you over stuff them).

Single crochet around the larger edge, joining two edges wrong side to wrong side.  Then add a bit of stuffing and single crochet the shorter side.

Slip stitch your last crochet with the first stitch, and then chain stitch for 10-20 stitches, or until as long as you want to dangle it.  Cut yarn and keep final chain loose - this will be how you attach it to the dowel.

Now add your stars - you want to use the craft wire like thread attaching the mini-buttons through the knitting, but instead of knotting wrap it round a dowel or pencil to create a spiral and sliding out once formed, like a starburst.

 

Hook the chain stitch over the dowel and pull to tighten, cut yarn and thread down into chain.  Eventually you will need to glue this to ensure it stays in the same place.  You want your dowel and moon pieces to be like a family tree.  First dowel has two dowel children, each of those dowel children have one dowel grandchild and one moon grandchild.  Each of those dowel grandchildren has two moon grandchildren.  You will need to do 4 sets of chains the same as on the end of the crescent, but leaving the starting chain loose to hook onto the middle of a children's dowel.

It is a careful balancing act working out where on the dowel your chains need to be placed.  First of all, once all chains are on the right dowels, use glue to attach a button on the end of each dowel.  This will stop the chains and moons falling off the dowel as you try to balance them.  Next, starting with the grandchildren, glue the moons chain to the dowel about 5mm in from the buttons on each side.  Now hold up this section by the chain that will attach it to the children, and move the chain side to side until it hangs evenly (somewhere near halfway at the centre).  Do this for the grandchildren on the other side.  Next, on the children glue the moon chain 5mm from the button, and the chain from the grandchildren 5mm from the other button.  Now hang from the chain to the parent and balance this (somewhere near one third to a quarter towards the chain from grandchildren).  This will take very careful patient balancing and gentle nudging till it works - then glue it quick!  Do the other side.  And now glue both of these to the top dowel, 5mm from each button.  And your top chain can be glued where balanced - close to the centre.  And if you've got the patience to get all of that perfect - you've got the patience to look after children that won't sleep!!

And there you go, a sprinkling of star dust on wonderful wonderful yarn.

Teeny Tiny Pixie Mits

For a preemi or very newborn, some little pixie style mits to keep hands warm or face scratch free. If new hands are so teeny tiny the mits dont stay on then lace some ribbon or icord through the eyelets.

Using a slim DK (you know, the ones that say they are but you really wonder how!) and 3.5mm needles...

Cast on 20
rows 1-6 - K1 P1 to end
row 7 - K2TOG YO to end
row 8 - purl
row 9-14 - stocking stitch
row 15 - K3 K2TOG to end (if now you realise you forgot the last YO on row 7 then end with a K2 K2TOG instead!)
row 16 - purl
row 17 - repeat row 15
row 18 - purl
row 19 - K2 K2TOG to end
row 20 - purl
row 21 - knit
row 22 - purl
Thread yarn through remaining stitches and mattress stitch the seam.

Basket Case Coasters

A simple basketweave in the centre, edged with crochet to give a ripple, makes this a very simple but textured double sided coaster.

Using 4mm needles and DK wool (I used sirdar escape for a gentle colour change...

Cast on 20
rows 1-5 - K5, P5, K5, P5
rows 6-11 - P5, K5, P5, K5
rows 12-17 - K5, P5, K5, P5
repeat rows 6-17
On row 29, cast off as you go until you get to the last stitch....

Instead of pulling yarn through this one stitch now becomes your crochet stitch.  Transfer the remaining stitch from the knitting needle to a 3.5mm crochet needle.  Single crochet (UK) in each stitch around the 4 edges of the coaster.

On the second round, in the first stitch single crochet and then chain 3, then single crochet in the next stitch (creating a bump).  Repeat these two combinations until you complete the round.  Slip a stitch to connect the last stitch into the first bump, and pull yarn through.

And there you go.  Beautifully textured, but bizarrely simples!  You might wish to block it out to 4.25" x 4.25" or keep it with a bit of tiny rustic curl.

Ruched Cable Brick Doorstop

For an 8" x 4" x 2.5" brick...

Using DK wool (I used Wendy Mode, a triple helix for interesting but simple colour variation) and 4mm needles...

Base
Leaving a long cast-on tail (40cm or so), cast on 42 stitches.
Knit in garter stitch for 24 rows, casting off with a long tail on the last one.

Sides (make 2)
Leaving another long cast-on tail, cast on 15 stitches
row 1 - P2, K4, P3, K4, P2
row 2 - K2, P4, K3, P4, K2
row 3 - P2, 4-st TC, P3, 4-st TC, P2
row 4 - K2, P4, K3, P4, K2
repeat rows 1-4 eight more times and cast off.

Feature
Imagine the following pattern in 7 columns;

• 5 stitches of reverse stockinette
• 12 stitches of left purl cable (half stockinette, half reverse stockinette)
• 5 stitches of reverse stockinette
• 12 stitches of twisted cable (stockinette)
• 5 stitches of reverse stockinette
• 12 stitches of right purl cable (half reverse stockinette, half stockinette)
• 5 stitches of reverse stockinette

Rows 1 & 2 are your staple right and wrongside rows to repeat unless stated.  The 12-st RPC and 12-st LPC are on an 11 row repeat, and the 12-st TC is on a 14 row repeat.

Cast on 56 stitches
row 1 - P5, K6, P11, K12, P11, K6, P5
row 2 - K5, P6, K11, P12, K11, P6, K5
row 3 - P5, 12-st RPC, P5, 12-st TC, P5, 12-st LPC, P5

row 15 - P5, 12-st RPC, P5, K12, P5, 12-st LPC, P5

row 17 - P5, K6, P11, 12-st TC, P11, K6, P5

row 27 - P5, 12-st RPC, P5, K12, P5, 12-st LPC, P5

row 31 - P5, K6, P11, 12-st TC, P11, K6, P5

row 39 - P5, 12-st RPC, P5, K12, P5, 12-st LPC, P5

row 45 - P5, K6, P11, 12-st TC, P11, K6, P5

row 51 - P5, 12-st RPC, P5, K12, P5, 12-st LPC, P5

row 59 - P5, K6, P11, 12-st TC, P11, K6, P5

row 65 - P5, 12-st RPC, P5, K12, P5, 12-st LPC, P5

row 71 - P5, K6, P11, 12-st TC, P11, K6, P5

Continue until row 75, or until it will comfortably wrap round two long sides and one short side of the brick, and cast off.

Make Up:
First of all, to protect your knitting, wrap an old tea towel or facecloth around the brick, stitching to secure it.  Neatness is not a priority in terms of cotton colour and stitch size as you ultimately won't see it, but the smoother the joins the better.

Using mattress stitch, along the long edge of the Feature piece, stitch the long edge of the Side piece, and then the short edge, and the long edge.  Do this on the other long edge of the Feature piece with the second Side piece.  You will have a 'pocket' of knitting for the brick to sit in.

With the 'pocket' around the brick, mattress stitch the Base to the enclose the brick in.  Weave in ends.  And 'stop' your door!



Key:

12-st LPC: slip 6 st onto cable needle and hold to front, P6, K6 from cable needle
12-st RPC: slip 6 st onto cable needle and hold to back, K6, P6 from cable needle
12-st TC: slip 12 stitches onto cable needle, turn one half turn clockwise, and working loosely knit all stitches from cable needle
4-st TC: slip 4 stitches onto cable needle, turn one half turn clockwise, and working loosely knit all stitches from cable needle