Showing posts with label tea cosy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tea cosy. Show all posts

Saturday, 29 October 2011

Tree Trunk Tea Cosy (for stainless steel pots)

I struggled to find a single pattern for a steel tea pot (those 'catering' rather than pretty style types).  Rather than getting Gran to change her habit of a lifetime, I created a pattern to fit the cylindrical rather than typical sphere shape for her.  Thus the tree trunk tea cosy!  This is for a 5" diameter, 4 1/2" high pot (3-4 cups).



This cosy is made up of two flat pieces, a left and right side of the cosy, which get joined at the top in the round for 1/4" before the rounds reducing to create the flat top.  I recommend using circular needles all the way through and then you can keep flat 'left' on the wire whilst you knit flat 'right' and then easily join together into the round without dropping stitches etc.  There will be a short 1" matress stitch join needed at the bottom where the handle is, and a 3" mattress stitch join needed at the bottom on the spout side.

This pattern is mainly suited to a semi-experienced knitter who enjoys improvising.  However, it can be simplified for a less expeirenced knitter - but it will look more angluar and less knarled.  If the below talk of knots and thicker/thinner lines terrifies you, I have written the base version here, you will only need to know PSSO, ribbing, matress stitch, knitting in the round, K2TOG, and changing colour.  You can adorn it with self knitted embelishments or craft shop items to disguise as necessary!  I haven't put any photos up of how different it looks compared to the improvised version as I haven't had time yet to make it twice!

All versions of this follow the base pattern as its starter.  The basic concept for the bark look of this tree trunk cosy is that the bark is formed by 3x3 rib to give it its lines.  Now in terms of making it look tree-bark-y (technical term huh!) you have two options depending how confident you feel:

  • Keep it simple, just 3x3 straight ribs.  For the basic knitter.
  • Play around yourself within the rough rules of 3x3 rib and add in thicker/thinner lines or knots as below.

Ok, so to aid understanding of my instructions; for each set of 3x knits I call this a 'rib', 3s or the dominant stripe, and for each set of 3x knit and 3x purl I call this a 'rib set' or 6s (dominant stripe and its partner recessive stripe).  As 95% of the bark is knitted flat, when mentioning knits and purls I refer to right side or wrong side - if for that last quarter inch in the round you are keen to continue thicker/thinner lines or knots then adapt the wrong side row instructions for knitting in the round (swap knits for purls and vice versa).

Thicker/thinner lines 
Work in pairs of changes - for every increase you do in one 'rib', you are best to do a decrease in the next 'rib'.  For the first row (right side) KFB into the middle K of the 'rib', P3 and then K1 K2TOG for the next 'rib' and P3 again.  Then for 3 (or an odd number of rows) work with this rib set as a 4x3x2x3 rather than 3x3x3x3.  Return to the normal 3x3 (on right side) by K2TOG in the middle two K of the 'rib' and KFB into the first K of the next knit 'rib'.  You can always make this a more dominant change of thickness by adding more KFBs and/or K2TOG and ammending the ?x3x?x3 rib set as appropriate.



Knots 
For a knot you will insert a recessive 'stripe' into the middle of a dominant stripe and then reduce it.  The size of the 'stripe' can vary and will always start with two stitches in row 2 and increase, before decreasing back to row 2 size and then removing the 'stripe' all together - this will make it a circle or knot (hence rcessive 'stripe' in inverted commas).

So, for basic small knot, in the 3 'rib' subsitute the following rows for the simple 3, starting on a wrong side row:
row i - P1, PFB, P1
row ii - K1, KFPB PFKB, K1
row iii - P2, KFB KFB, P2
row iv - K2, P4, K2
row v - P2, K4, P2
row vi - K2, P2TOG P2TOG, K2
row vii - P2, K2TOG, P2
row viii - K1, s1 K2TOG PSSO, K1
row ix - return to the simple 3












Or you can do a simple blemish by doing a YO K2TOG in the middles of a bunch of knits.

Remember: bark is nobly bobbly and bulges in places - therefore the tea cosy does not need to fit like cling film maintaining the shape of the pot perfectly all round the circumference.  Additional stitches in rows can bulge as you like and bump away from the pot irregularly.  If anything, any mistakes you make not maintaining your regimented 3x3 rib will look better!

Once the tree trunk is knitted, you can start to decorate and adorn as you feel best suited to - knit, crochet, felt, button/bead or shop bought.  I used my ivy leaf cord pattern, instead of weaving in the ends I used those yarns to sew a little stitch to loosely hold onto the cosy, and some grass.  I also placed a curved oak leaf onto the top to disguise the bump of the lid handle.

Why not try for example:
If you follow the improvise pattern then these cosies are like gem stones - each is a unique product, and natural flaws become more special.  Would love to see the different scenes you come up with!

Friday, 10 June 2011

Nemo Tea Cosy

How better to warm your tea than with a novelty fish?! Ribbing makes the fins 'realistically spinous'. The modular pattern includes some colour work putting black and white stripes in; detailed instructions for each section and a chart should guide you through. Crochet edging is done in black to give the final stripe on the tip of the fins - if you have never crocheted before this is a relatively simple crochet. Have a look at attic 24 if you get stuck as she has more patience in putting up step by step photos!. The actual knitting should be relatively easy, it's just the changing of colour in places that can look onerous on the pattern and make it appear more complicated. I personally found having a smaller fin true nemo style looked a bit weird so have written the instructions and chart for his "lucky" fin, but you might prefer to just make two of the pectoral fins instead.


For a 2-3 cup tea pot, use 4mm needles and DK wool....

Body: (make one)
There are four simple 'rules' for the body... on the odd rows (RS), purl the first 4 stitches then knit all others. On even rows (WS) purl all stitches. On increase rows (always WS) M1P in the second stitch and on a decrease row (also always WS) P2TOG the second and third stitch. Increase rows are rows 1-26 and 43-52, and decrease rows are 32-42 and 59-84. Rows 27-31 and 53-58 are "normal", no increases or decreases.

Cast on 18
row 1 - P4, knit to end
row 2 - P1, M1p, purl to end (increase)
repeat rows 1 and 2 six more times
row 15 - continue in black
rows 16-18 - continue in white
row 19 - continue in black
rows 20-26 - continue in orange (last row at 31 stitches)
Stop the increase
rows 27-31 - continue in orange with no increases
row 32 - start decrease
row 33 - continue in black
rows 34-37 - continue in white
row 38 - continue in black
rows 39-41 - continue in orange (last row 26 stitches)
row 42 - P5, cast off 16, P5 [HALFWAY POINT - hole for handle]
row 43 - P4, K1, cast on 16, K5
rows 44-46 - increase
row 47 - continue increase in black
rows 48-51 - continue increase in white
row 52 - continue increase in black (last row 31 stitches)
rows 53-58 - continue in orange, no increase
rows 59-65 - decrease in orange
rows 66 - continue decrease in black
rows 67-69 - continue decrease in white
row 70 - continue decrease in black
rows 71-83 - continue decrease in orange
row 84 - cast off and leave long enough end to join

When body is finished, join the top together using mattress stitch and cast off end. Take care to line black and white stripes up.

Dorsal Fin: (make one)
Cast on 6 stitches
row 1 - KFB, P1, K1, P1, KFB, P1
row 2 - [KFB, P] repeat 4 times
row 3 - [P1, K1] repeat 6 times
row 4 - [K1, P1] repeat 6 times
row 5 - [P1, K2TOG] repeat 4 times
row 6 - K2TOG and cast off

Along top edge, tie black to the cast off orange thread, slip stitch (1), then double crochet 4 times around edge (into orange cast off stitches - 2 & 3), slip stitch (4) and finish.
Weave in cast off black end, and use cast on orange end to sew onto body. TIP: run cast off orange thread and black cast on thread along the fin edge and contain within the crochet stitches as you go, to save weaving in.


Pectoral Fins: (either make one and the "Lucky fin" or make two)
Cast on 9
row 1 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 2 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 3 - KFB, [P1, K1] 3 times, P1, KFB (11 stitches)
row 4 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 5 - [P1, KFB] 2 times, P1, K1, [P1, KFB] 2 times, P1 (15 stitches)
row 6 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 7 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 8 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 9 - [P1, KFB] 3 times, P1, K1, [P1, KFB] 3 times, P1 (21 stitches)
row 10 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 11 - SSK, [P1, K1] repeat 8 times, P1, K2TOG (19 stitches)
row 12 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 13 - SSK, P1, SSK, [P1, K1] 4 times, P1, K2TOG, P1, K2TOG
row 14 - knit and cast off
In black wool crochet as with the dorsal fin (with 15 double crochet instead) into the orange cast off stitches.

"Lucky" Fin: (make one, unless having two normal side fins)
Cast on 4
row 1 – [K1, P1] 2 times
row 2 – [KFB, P1] 2 times
row 3 – P1, KFB, P1, K1, P1, KFB
row 4 – [K1, P1] 4 times
row 5 – SSK, SSK, K2TOG, K2TOG
row 6 – Knit and cast off
In black wool crochet as with the dorsal fin into the orange cast off stitches.

Tail: (make one)
WHITE
Cast on 9
row 1 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 2 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 3 - KFB, [P1, K1] 3 times, P1, KFB (11 stitches)
row 4 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
Change to BLACK
row 5 - [P1, KFB] 2 times, P1, K1, [P1, KFB] 2 times, P1 (15 stitches)
Change to ORANGE
row 6 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 7 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 8 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 9 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 10 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 11 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 12 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 13 - [P1, KFB] 3 times, P1, K1, [P1, KFB] 3 times, P1 (21 stitches)
row 14 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 15 - SSK, [P1, K1] repeat 8 times, P1, K2TOG (19 stitches)
row 16 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 17 - SSK, P1, SSK, [P1, K1] 4 times, P1, K2TOG, P1, K2TOG
row 18 - knit and cast off
In black wool crochet as with the dorsal fin (with 15 double crochet instead) into the orange cast off stitches.

Make up
Mattress stitch the sides of the body together (wrong side facing in), starting above spout with cast off end at the front (narrower shorter stripe) going to the join at handle (the cast off/cast on hole). Sew on the dorsal fin at top, pectoral fins (or pectoral fin and "lucky" fin) at side of body in the orange patch and then the tail on the edge of the handle 'hole'. If you are right handed then put the tail on the left side of the handle, if left handed put it on the right side. This means when your hand goes to pick it up your hand should push the fin out of the way of the handle instead of getting tangled. Now for the eyes you have a choice - buttons, or crochet a circle in black and edge in white (similar to rounds 1 and 2 on attic 24's page). Or even googly eyes. Or felt eyes. Just find some eyes that you like and stick/sew 'em on. I used black buttons on top of white buttons because I like that cottage crafty hand-made look.




Patterns I love that helped give me some inspiration to put this pattern together include: