Kensington Steeked Pot

Isn't it funny how fashions change.  Three years ago when I started knitting tea pot cosies I'd have thought how old fashioned this one looked and not touched it.  Now I was so keen to create something that really looked 'knitted' and had block colour texture I couldn't actually find anything 'old' enough!

I'm not a fan of most methods to make the two holes for tea pot cosies, I don't like joining in yarns and leaving stitches on stitch holders, or doing big amounts of awkwardly shaped seaming.  By using steeks and straight edges with a draw string this one avoids that.  There is a need to weave in ends due to the colour knitting but other than that, your cast off/on ends are used to crochet it together and so really minimal finishing.

Using DK yarn and 4mm needles...

Colour A
Cast on 80, leaving a very long cast on tail
rows 1-4: 2x2 rib
Colour B
row 5: knit
row 6: purl
Colour C
row 7: K2, sl1pw, (K3, sl1pw) rep K1
row 8: K1, (YF sl1pw,YB K3) rep K2
Colour B
row 9: K4, (slpw K3) rep
row 10: P3 sl1pw rep P4
row 11: knit
row 12: purl
Colour A
repeat rows 5-6
Colour D
repeat rows 7-8
Colour A
repeat rows 9-12

Repeat these rows 5-12 three more time in any colour combinations, I maintained my B&C and A&D pair swaps.

Colour A
row 41: K2, K2tog, rep
row 42: purl
Colour D
row 43: repeat row 7
row 44: repeat row 8
Colour A
row 45: repeat row 9
row 46: repeat row 10
Colour B
row 47: knit
row 48: purl
row 49: (K1, YO, K2tog) repeat to end
row 50: purl
rows 51 & 52: knit/purl
Colour A
repeat rows 5-6
Colour D
repeat rows 7-8
Colour A
row 57: (KFB 3 times, K1) repeat to end
row 58: purl
Cast off by K2tog, slip stitch from right hand needle to left hand needle, K2tog and repeat to end.  Leave a very long cats off tail.


Knit a 3 stitch i-cord for the tie (in Colour C), it will need to be about 15 inches.  This will thread through the holes created by the yarn overs and pull the cosy in around the tea pot lid.


Now here comes the interesting part... steeks.  It is all based around the columns of stitches 40, 41 and 42 - the needle is showing column 41 here.

Using a 3.5mm crochet hook, using Colour A make a slip knot and place onto the hook.  Stick your hook through the right leg of stitch 41 in row 7 and the left leg of stitch 40 as below.

Wrap the yarn over the hook, and pull yarn through the two Colour C stitches.

Wrap yarn over the hook again and pull yarn through the two Colour A stitches.
Repeat, sticking hook through the right leg of stitch 41 in row 8 and the left leg of stitch 40 as below

Keep going

When you get to row 22, or the 4th set of knit bumps turn your work and continue in the same way but this time stitching through the left leg or stitch 41 and the right leg of stitch 42.

When you get back to where you started, secure the yarn by doing a slip stitch into the starting stitch, and pull yarn through the last loop to secure.

Now, you can take the scissors to your piece of work (yikes!).  If you push down on your two lines of crochet you will see a 'ladder' between them rather than stitches.

This is what you cut - the rungs between the two crochet lines.

And this is where your opening for the spout will be.

Now you will also need to join the two edges/sides between rows 1-8 and from rows 58-27, this can be by crochet like the steeking or matress stitch, which ever suits you.  Then crochet like the steek around the edge between these two, encasing the hole.

Weave in your loose ends, and thread the i-cord through the yarn overs.

And there you go.

Ruched Cable Tissue Box Cover

A simple, but textured distinct tissue box cover, to jazz up the functional card box without drawing too much attention to it.  You could match this with the Ruched Cable Brick Doorstop if you want a co-ordinated ruched-room!  I used the same yarn as it worked so well (Wendy Mode a triple helix) but in a different shade as this was for a different room.  The join technique at the top with careful three needle bind off inside out means a seamless item with limited weaving in of ends required.

To fit a square tissue box (4 1/2” W x 4 1/2” D x 5” H).

The pattern could be adapted for a rectangular one, but I haven’t got that far yet!

Using 3.5mm circular needle and DK wool (I used a triple helix for interest)

Cast on 148 placing stitch markers every 37 stitches (optional*) and join into round

rounds 1-4 – K2, P2 rib (ignoring stitch markers)

rounds 5-49 - P4, K12, P4, K12, P4, K1, repeating three more times (stitch markers mark repeats)

except rounds 10, 21, 32 and 43 – P4, 12st-TC, P4, 12st-TC, P4, K1, repeating three more times (stitch markers mark repeats)

Pause at round 49.  This should be the sides of your box done (5 inch)

To make the top requires a bit of magic loop style with sort of short rows… or a sort of knitting that I can’t possibly have invented yet can’t find a name for it.  You will see your stitch markers* show the 4 sides of the box, lets call them A, B, C and D.  

So how do you get this?  Insert a second magic loop, so C is on the wire all by itself between two magic loops and A, B, D are as if on normal knitting needles and partway through a row.
  

This will be your straight rows across the square lid - starting a third of the way across.  You are reverse stockinette knitting to and fro across A as in the photo above, but each row (not round) you need to join it to B and D by starting with a K2TOG or SSP; (the first stitch of A and the first stitch of B) and ending with a SSK or P2TOG (the last stitch of A and the first stitch of D).  This can be quite fiddly with your stitch markers and needing to shuffle them every first and last stitch - if you are good at counting you can skip them, but if you are instead a spatial person it may take you several rows to notice the square and where to join the sides to the main.

So first row, moving the stitch marker, transfer the last stitch of B onto the needle next to A, and SSP then purl 35 more stitches, P2TOG (one from A and one from D) having moved the stitch marker.

Next row, turn your knitting (yes, weird when in magic loop even if double magic loop!).  Moving the stitch marker again, transfer last stitch of D onto the needle next to A, and K2TOG.  Then knit 35 more stitches, and SSK (one from A and one from B) having moved the stitch marker.

And repeat.  A will start to look like a square and B and D will get shorter and shorter.

odd rows will be purl 

even rows will be knit

row 18 – cast off from stitch 13 to stitch 25 (13 stitches total) and continue 11 stitches knitting as normal, SSK the last stitch and one from B

row 19 – purl first 12 stitches as normal (including the SSP), turn your needles and cast on 13 stitches, turning your needles back to then purl last 11 stitches and P2TOG as normal

row 20 onwards continue as before row 18.

row 38 is your final row.  You will need to carefully turn your work inside out (this can be fiddly, don't forget to bring the yarn through with you) and place A on one needle, and C off the magic loop and back onto the other end of the circular needle.  (B and D have all been knitted in so don't remain on the needle).  Use a third needle to do a three needle purl bind off between A and C.

There we go.  Completely seamless and only your starting end to weave in (for the lazy… or your finishing end hidden inside that you can do if pedantic!)

12st-TC (twist cable) means slide 12 stitches onto cable needle, twist clockwise and knit off cable needle loosely.

Ruched Cable Brick Doorstop

For an 8" x 4" x 2.5" brick...

Using DK wool (I used Wendy Mode, a triple helix for interesting but simple colour variation) and 4mm needles...

Base
Leaving a long cast-on tail (40cm or so), cast on 42 stitches.
Knit in garter stitch for 24 rows, casting off with a long tail on the last one.

Sides (make 2)
Leaving another long cast-on tail, cast on 15 stitches
row 1 - P2, K4, P3, K4, P2
row 2 - K2, P4, K3, P4, K2
row 3 - P2, 4-st TC, P3, 4-st TC, P2
row 4 - K2, P4, K3, P4, K2
repeat rows 1-4 eight more times and cast off.

Feature
Imagine the following pattern in 7 columns;

• 5 stitches of reverse stockinette
• 12 stitches of left purl cable (half stockinette, half reverse stockinette)
• 5 stitches of reverse stockinette
• 12 stitches of twisted cable (stockinette)
• 5 stitches of reverse stockinette
• 12 stitches of right purl cable (half reverse stockinette, half stockinette)
• 5 stitches of reverse stockinette

Rows 1 & 2 are your staple right and wrongside rows to repeat unless stated.  The 12-st RPC and 12-st LPC are on an 11 row repeat, and the 12-st TC is on a 14 row repeat.

Cast on 56 stitches
row 1 - P5, K6, P11, K12, P11, K6, P5
row 2 - K5, P6, K11, P12, K11, P6, K5
row 3 - P5, 12-st RPC, P5, 12-st TC, P5, 12-st LPC, P5

row 15 - P5, 12-st RPC, P5, K12, P5, 12-st LPC, P5

row 17 - P5, K6, P11, 12-st TC, P11, K6, P5

row 27 - P5, 12-st RPC, P5, K12, P5, 12-st LPC, P5

row 31 - P5, K6, P11, 12-st TC, P11, K6, P5

row 39 - P5, 12-st RPC, P5, K12, P5, 12-st LPC, P5

row 45 - P5, K6, P11, 12-st TC, P11, K6, P5

row 51 - P5, 12-st RPC, P5, K12, P5, 12-st LPC, P5

row 59 - P5, K6, P11, 12-st TC, P11, K6, P5

row 65 - P5, 12-st RPC, P5, K12, P5, 12-st LPC, P5

row 71 - P5, K6, P11, 12-st TC, P11, K6, P5

Continue until row 75, or until it will comfortably wrap round two long sides and one short side of the brick, and cast off.

Make Up:
First of all, to protect your knitting, wrap an old tea towel or facecloth around the brick, stitching to secure it.  Neatness is not a priority in terms of cotton colour and stitch size as you ultimately won't see it, but the smoother the joins the better.

Using mattress stitch, along the long edge of the Feature piece, stitch the long edge of the Side piece, and then the short edge, and the long edge.  Do this on the other long edge of the Feature piece with the second Side piece.  You will have a 'pocket' of knitting for the brick to sit in.

With the 'pocket' around the brick, mattress stitch the Base to the enclose the brick in.  Weave in ends.  And 'stop' your door!



Key:

12-st LPC: slip 6 st onto cable needle and hold to front, P6, K6 from cable needle
12-st RPC: slip 6 st onto cable needle and hold to back, K6, P6 from cable needle
12-st TC: slip 12 stitches onto cable needle, turn one half turn clockwise, and working loosely knit all stitches from cable needle
4-st TC: slip 4 stitches onto cable needle, turn one half turn clockwise, and working loosely knit all stitches from cable needle

Beach Hut Tea Cosy

When it's dreary outside, why not put on the kettle and basque in a quintessential British seaside themed cuppa.  Yarn over and knit two together through the back loop ridges create a simple wooden paneling effect on this beach hut tea cosy.

Using DK yarn and 4mm needles...

Front (make 2)

Cast on 33 in contrast colour (turquoise for me)
rows 1-4 - garter stitch
row 5 - change to main colour (pale blue for me) and knit
row 6 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 7 - [K2TOGtbl*] repeat to end
row 8 - purl
repeat rows 5-8 seven more times
row 37 - knit
row 38 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 39 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 31 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (31 stitches remain)
row 40 - P2TOG, P27, SSP
row 41 - SSK, K25, K2TOG
row 42 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 43 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 25 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (25 stitches remain)
row 44 - P2TOG, P21, SSP
row 45 - SSK, K19, K2TOG
row 46 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 47 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 19 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (19 stitches remain)
row 48 - P2TOG, P17, SSP
row 49 - SSK, K15, K2TOG
row 50 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 51 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 13 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (13 stitches remain)
row 52 - P2TOG, P9, SSP
row 53 - SSK, K7, K2TOG
row 54 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 55 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 7 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (7 stitches remain)
row 56 - P2TOG, P3, SSP
row 57 - SSK, K1, K2TOG
row 58 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 59 - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end (3 stitches remain)

Thread yarn through remaining stitches and pull tight.

* if you are struggling to get the needle through the right place, insert right hand needle as if to purl the YO and stitch, rotate over the top of the left hand needle clockwise, and it should sit ready to K2TOGtbl.  I find this circular wrap motion quicker.

Doors (make 4)

Cast on 10 using contrast colour (turquoise for me)
row 1 - knit
row 2 - [P1, sl1p] repeat to end
repeat rows 1 & 2 twelve more times
Cast off knitwise

Back (handle) (make 1)

Cast on 34 in contrast colour (turquoise for me)
rows 1-4 - garter stitch
row 5 - change to main colour (pale blue for me) and knit
row 6 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 7 - [K2TOGtbl*] repeat to end
row 8 - purl
repeat rows 5-7
row 12 - P17, turn leaving remaining 17 stitches on the needle to come back to later
repeat rows 5-8 six more times on those 17 stitches

Leave stitches on needle, cut yarn and return to remaining 17 stitches in row 12 and repeat rows 12 - 36 starting with the purl on wrong side.

row 37 - knit joining back together the two sides in one row
repeat rows 6-7
row 40 - purl and cast off



Back (spout) (make 1)

Cast on 34 in contrast colour (turquoise for me)
rows 1-4 - garter stitch
row 5 - change to main colour (pale blue for me) and knit
row 6 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 7 - [K2TOGtbl*] repeat to end
row 8 - purl
repeat rows 5-7

row 12a - P17, turn leaving remaining 17 stitches on the needle to come back to later
row 13a - K2TOGtbl, K15
row 14a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 15a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 16a - P14, SSP
row 17a - K2TOGtbl, K13
row 18a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 19a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 20a - P12, SSP
row 21a - K2TOGtbl, K11
row 22a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 23a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 24a - P11, PFB
row 25a - KFB, K12
row 26a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 27a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 28a - P13, PFB
row 29a - KFB, K14
row 30a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 31a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 32a - P15, PFB
row 33a - knit
row 34a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 35a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 36a - purl

Leave stitches on needle, cut yarn and return to remaining 17 stitches in row 12 starting with the purl on wrong side continue as below.

row 12b - P17
row 13b - K15, K2TOG
row 14b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 15b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 16b - P2TOG, P14
row 17b - K13, K2TOG
row 18b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 19b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 20b - P2TOG, P12
row 21b - K11, K2TOG
row 22b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 23b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 24b - PFB, P11
row 25b - K12, KFB
row 26b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 27b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 28b - PFB, P13
row 29b - K14, KFB
row 30b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 31b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 32b - PFB, P15
row 33b - knit
row 34b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 35b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 36b - purl


row 37 - knit joining back together the two sides in one row
repeat rows 6-7
row 40 - purl and cast off

Roof (make 1)

Cast on 35
row 1 - [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 2 - [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 3 - [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 4 - knit
row 5 - K2, P1 [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 6 - P2, K1 [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 7 - K2, P1 [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 8 - knit

repeat rows 1-8 four more times, ending on a row 7.

Slide knitting to end of needle and save for later.

Cast on 35 on the same needle as waiting knitting, and repeat pattern above (the wrong side will be reversed).

row 1 - [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 2 - [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 3 - [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 4 - purl
row 5 - P2, K1 [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 6 - K2, P1 [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 7 - P2, K1 [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 8 - knit

repeat rows 1-8 four more times, ending on a row 7.


Put your right sides together facing inwards and use a third needle to do a 3 needle bind off which will create a subtle coping tile.

Make Up
You might find it easiest if you block and starch the pieces (depends how tight and stiff your gauge is).

Sew the two doors onto each front, and put a button as the door handles.  Sew on any other embellishments you have made, such as the life belts or sea shells.

Mattress stitch the sides of the Back(Handle) to the Fronts, and the remaining sides of the fronts to the Back(spout).  This will give you a cube outline (and from my photo you will see why starching might be desired).

Sew roof tiles to edges of hut from the inside.  Star with the diagonal sides and finish with the back spout and handle sides - these will overlap a little bit so don't stitch edge to edge.

Weave in all ends, and voila!

Tree Trunk Tea Cosy (for stainless steel pots)

I struggled to find a single pattern for a steel tea pot (those 'catering' rather than pretty style types).  Rather than getting Gran to change her habit of a lifetime, I created a pattern to fit the cylindrical rather than typical sphere shape for her.  Thus the tree trunk tea cosy!  This is for a 5" diameter, 4 1/2" high pot (3-4 cups).

This cosy is made up of two flat pieces, a left and right side of the cosy, which get joined at the top in the round for 1/4" before the rounds reducing to create the flat top.  I recommend using circular needles all the way through and then you can keep flat 'left' on the wire whilst you knit flat 'right' and then easily join together into the round without dropping stitches etc.  There will be a short 1" matress stitch join needed at the bottom where the handle is, and a 3" mattress stitch join needed at the bottom on the spout side.

This pattern is mainly suited to a semi-experienced knitter who enjoys improvising.  However, it can be simplified for a less expeirenced knitter - but it will look more angluar and less knarled.  If the below talk of knots and thicker/thinner lines terrifies you, I have written the base version here, you will only need to know PSSO, ribbing, matress stitch, knitting in the round, K2TOG, and changing colour.  You can adorn it with self knitted embelishments or craft shop items to disguise as necessary!  I haven't put any photos up of how different it looks compared to the improvised version as I haven't had time yet to make it twice!

All versions of this follow the base pattern as its starter.  The basic concept for the bark look of this tree trunk cosy is that the bark is formed by 3x3 rib to give it its lines.  Now in terms of making it look tree-bark-y (technical term huh!) you have two options depending how confident you feel:

• Keep it simple, just 3x3 straight ribs.  For the basic knitter.
• Play around yourself within the rough rules of 3x3 rib and add in thicker/thinner lines or knots as below.

Ok, so to aid understanding of my instructions; for each set of 3x knits I call this a 'rib', 3s or the dominant stripe, and for each set of 3x knit and 3x purl I call this a 'rib set' or 6s (dominant stripe and its partner recessive stripe).  As 95% of the bark is knitted flat, when mentioning knits and purls I refer to right side or wrong side - if for that last quarter inch in the round you are keen to continue thicker/thinner lines or knots then adapt the wrong side row instructions for knitting in the round (swap knits for purls and vice versa).

Thicker/thinner lines 

Work in pairs of changes - for every increase you do in one 'rib', you are best to do a decrease in the next 'rib'.  For the first row (right side) KFB into the middle K of the 'rib', P3 and then K1 K2TOG for the next 'rib' and P3 again.  Then for 3 (or an odd number of rows) work with this rib set as a 4x3x2x3 rather than 3x3x3x3.  Return to the normal 3x3 (on right side) by K2TOG in the middle two K of the 'rib' and KFB into the first K of the next knit 'rib'.  You can always make this a more dominant change of thickness by adding more KFBs and/or K2TOG and ammending the ?x3x?x3 rib set as appropriate.



Knots 

For a knot you will insert a recessive 'stripe' into the middle of a dominant stripe and then reduce it.  The size of the 'stripe' can vary and will always start with two stitches in row 2 and increase, before decreasing back to row 2 size and then removing the 'stripe' all together - this will make it a circle or knot (hence rcessive 'stripe' in inverted commas).

So, for basic small knot, in the 3 'rib' subsitute the following rows for the simple 3, starting on a wrong side row:
row i - P1, PFB, P1
row ii - K1, KFPB PFKB, K1
row iii - P2, KFB KFB, P2
row iv - K2, P4, K2
row v - P2, K4, P2
row vi - K2, P2TOG P2TOG, K2
row vii - P2, K2TOG, P2
row viii - K1, s1 K2TOG PSSO, K1
row ix - return to the simple 3












Or you can do a simple blemish by doing a YO K2TOG in the middles of a bunch of knits.

Remember: bark is nobly bobbly and bulges in places - therefore the tea cosy does not need to fit like cling film maintaining the shape of the pot perfectly all round the circumference.  Additional stitches in rows can bulge as you like and bump away from the pot irregularly.  If anything, any mistakes you make not maintaining your regimented 3x3 rib will look better!

Once the tree trunk is knitted, you can start to decorate and adorn as you feel best suited to - knit, crochet, felt, button/bead or shop bought.  I used my ivy leaf cord pattern, instead of weaving in the ends I used those yarns to sew a little stitch to loosely hold onto the cosy, and some grass.  I also placed a curved oak leaf onto the top to disguise the bump of the lid handle.

Why not try for example:

• grass (a 4 stitch icord, decrease to 3 stitch, 2 stitch then cast off to make point on end)
• a variety of crochet flowers,  picot flowers, teeny tiny flowers, or knitted tiny flowers
• oak leaves
• a bunny
• an owl
• spider
• ladybirds
• birds

If you follow the improvise pattern then these cosies are like gem stones - each is a unique product, and natural flaws become more special.  Would love to see the different scenes you come up with!

Rabbit in the Moonlight Smartphone Case

Called rabbit in the moonlight because the rabbit doesn't stand out as well as I hoped - it's more a mirage of a rabbit (hard to capture on camera). But all the same, I still like the ribbed look. It's based on my Little Owls Smartphone Case using cabling and french knots within a rib repeat.

Using DK wool and 3.5mm needles...

Cast on 32
row 1 - K2, [P4, K4] rep to last two stitches, K2
row 2 - P2, [K4, P4] rep to last two stitches, P2
unless stated, repeat rows 1 on right side & 2 on wrong side

row 5 - K2, P4, c2b, c2f, P4, K4, P4, c2b, c2f, P4, K2
*
row 8 - P2, K4, c2b(p), c2f(p), K4, P4, K4, c2b(p), c2f(p), K4, P2
*
row 11 - K2, P4, c2f, c2b, P4, K4, P4, c2f, c2b, P4, K2
row 12 - P2, K4, sl1, K2, sl1, K4, P4, K4, sl1, K2, sl1, K4, P2
row 13 - K2, P4, K1, P2, K1, P4, K4, P4, K1, P2, K1, P4, K2
row 14 - repeat row 12
*
row 31 - K1, [YO, K2TOG] to end
*
row 38 - cast off following rib pattern

Sew french knots for tail on the 2 rabbits, and then mattress stitch a seam down the side and along bottom using long cast off end.


The idea is to be a snug fit, my phone (Samsung Galaxy Ace) is 11cm x 5cm x 1cm. The ribs are a size to fit a 'chunky' phone (i.e. iPhone 4 square edge rather than 3 curved taper) and nicely edge it, but I'm sure would also fit more slimline models too. Let me know how it looks and fits for other models.

Little Owls Smartphone Case

OK, so you might guess my favourite colour, and favourite animal from yet another case design....! I got a new phone and quickly needed something to protect it, cue whipping off a quick knitted case with a rib and owl repeat.

Using DK wool and 3.5mm needles...

Cast on 32
row 1 - K2, [P4, K4] rep to last two stitches, K2
row 2 - P2, [K4, P4] rep to last two stitches, P2
unless stated, repeat rows 1 on right side & 2 on wrong side

row 7 - K2, P4, c2b, c2f, P4, K4, P4, c2b, c2f, P4, K2
*
row 10 - P2, K4, c2f(p), c2b(p), K4, P4, K4, c2f(p), c2b(p), K4, P2
*
row 13 - repeat row 7
*
row 21 - repeat rows 7-13
*
row 31 - K1, [YO, K2TOG] to end
*
row 38 - cast off following rib pattern

Sew french knots for eyes on the 4 owls, and then mattress stitch a seam down the side and along bottom using long cast off end.

The idea is to be a snug fit, my phone (Samsung Galaxy Ace) is 11cm x 5cm x 1cm. The ribs are a size to fit a 'chunky' phone (i.e. iPhone 4 square edge rather than 3 curved taper) and nicely edge it, but I'm sure would also fit more slimline models too. Let me know how it looks and fits for other models.

Patterns I love that helped give me some inspiration to put this pattern together include:

• My Knitting Basket Owl Cup Cosy
• Charlotte Nash Knits and Spins iPod Cosy

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Nemo Tea Cosy

How better to warm your tea than with a novelty fish?! Ribbing makes the fins 'realistically spinous'. The modular pattern includes some colour work putting black and white stripes in; detailed instructions for each section and a chart should guide you through. Crochet edging is done in black to give the final stripe on the tip of the fins - if you have never crocheted before this is a relatively simple crochet. Have a look at attic 24 if you get stuck as she has more patience in putting up step by step photos!. The actual knitting should be relatively easy, it's just the changing of colour in places that can look onerous on the pattern and make it appear more complicated. I personally found having a smaller fin true nemo style looked a bit weird so have written the instructions and chart for his "lucky" fin, but you might prefer to just make two of the pectoral fins instead.

For a 2-3 cup tea pot, use 4mm needles and DK wool....

Body: (make one)
There are four simple 'rules' for the body... on the odd rows (RS), purl the first 4 stitches then knit all others. On even rows (WS) purl all stitches. On increase rows (always WS) M1P in the second stitch and on a decrease row (also always WS) P2TOG the second and third stitch. Increase rows are rows 1-26 and 43-52, and decrease rows are 32-42 and 59-84. Rows 27-31 and 53-58 are "normal", no increases or decreases.

Cast on 18
row 1 - P4, knit to end
row 2 - P1, M1p, purl to end (increase)
repeat rows 1 and 2 six more times
row 15 - continue in black
rows 16-18 - continue in white
row 19 - continue in black
rows 20-26 - continue in orange (last row at 31 stitches)
Stop the increase
rows 27-31 - continue in orange with no increases
row 32 - start decrease
row 33 - continue in black
rows 34-37 - continue in white
row 38 - continue in black
rows 39-41 - continue in orange (last row 26 stitches)
row 42 - P5, cast off 16, P5 [HALFWAY POINT - hole for handle]
row 43 - P4, K1, cast on 16, K5
rows 44-46 - increase
row 47 - continue increase in black
rows 48-51 - continue increase in white
row 52 - continue increase in black (last row 31 stitches)
rows 53-58 - continue in orange, no increase
rows 59-65 - decrease in orange
rows 66 - continue decrease in black
rows 67-69 - continue decrease in white
row 70 - continue decrease in black
rows 71-83 - continue decrease in orange
row 84 - cast off and leave long enough end to join

When body is finished, join the top together using mattress stitch and cast off end. Take care to line black and white stripes up.

Dorsal Fin: (make one)
Cast on 6 stitches
row 1 - KFB, P1, K1, P1, KFB, P1
row 2 - [KFB, P] repeat 4 times
row 3 - [P1, K1] repeat 6 times
row 4 - [K1, P1] repeat 6 times
row 5 - [P1, K2TOG] repeat 4 times
row 6 - K2TOG and cast off

Along top edge, tie black to the cast off orange thread, slip stitch (1), then double crochet 4 times around edge (into orange cast off stitches - 2 & 3), slip stitch (4) and finish.

Weave in cast off black end, and use cast on orange end to sew onto body. TIP: run cast off orange thread and black cast on thread along the fin edge and contain within the crochet stitches as you go, to save weaving in.

Pectoral Fins: (either make one and the "Lucky fin" or make two)
Cast on 9
row 1 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 2 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 3 - KFB, [P1, K1] 3 times, P1, KFB (11 stitches)
row 4 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 5 - [P1, KFB] 2 times, P1, K1, [P1, KFB] 2 times, P1 (15 stitches)
row 6 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 7 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 8 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 9 - [P1, KFB] 3 times, P1, K1, [P1, KFB] 3 times, P1 (21 stitches)
row 10 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 11 - SSK, [P1, K1] repeat 8 times, P1, K2TOG (19 stitches)
row 12 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 13 - SSK, P1, SSK, [P1, K1] 4 times, P1, K2TOG, P1, K2TOG
row 14 - knit and cast off
In black wool crochet as with the dorsal fin (with 15 double crochet instead) into the orange cast off stitches.

"Lucky" Fin: (make one, unless having two normal side fins)
Cast on 4
row 1 – [K1, P1] 2 times
row 2 – [KFB, P1] 2 times
row 3 – P1, KFB, P1, K1, P1, KFB
row 4 – [K1, P1] 4 times
row 5 – SSK, SSK, K2TOG, K2TOG
row 6 – Knit and cast off
In black wool crochet as with the dorsal fin into the orange cast off stitches.

Tail: (make one)
WHITE
Cast on 9
row 1 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 2 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 3 - KFB, [P1, K1] 3 times, P1, KFB (11 stitches)
row 4 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
Change to BLACK
row 5 - [P1, KFB] 2 times, P1, K1, [P1, KFB] 2 times, P1 (15 stitches)
Change to ORANGE
row 6 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 7 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 8 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 9 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 10 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 11 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 12 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 13 - [P1, KFB] 3 times, P1, K1, [P1, KFB] 3 times, P1 (21 stitches)
row 14 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 15 - SSK, [P1, K1] repeat 8 times, P1, K2TOG (19 stitches)
row 16 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 17 - SSK, P1, SSK, [P1, K1] 4 times, P1, K2TOG, P1, K2TOG
row 18 - knit and cast off
In black wool crochet as with the dorsal fin (with 15 double crochet instead) into the orange cast off stitches.

Make up
Mattress stitch the sides of the body together (wrong side facing in), starting above spout with cast off end at the front (narrower shorter stripe) going to the join at handle (the cast off/cast on hole). Sew on the dorsal fin at top, pectoral fins (or pectoral fin and "lucky" fin) at side of body in the orange patch and then the tail on the edge of the handle 'hole'. If you are right handed then put the tail on the left side of the handle, if left handed put it on the right side. This means when your hand goes to pick it up your hand should push the fin out of the way of the handle instead of getting tangled. Now for the eyes you have a choice - buttons, or crochet a circle in black and edge in white (similar to rounds 1 and 2 on attic 24's page). Or even googly eyes. Or felt eyes. Just find some eyes that you like and stick/sew 'em on. I used black buttons on top of white buttons because I like that cottage crafty hand-made look.

Patterns I love that helped give me some inspiration to put this pattern together include:

• Trampled by Geese Elephants on the Tea Cosy
• Jessica Woofter Clown Fish Crochet Pattern