Variegated Dribbler

I am a big fan of  Kate Blackburn's Baby Bandana Bib but find its shape doesn't suit self striping yarn so well. So have developed this one to allow some shapely striping to take place, whilst hopefully still keeping the simplicity.  If you don't have a self striping/variegated yarn to hand, just switch yarns every 2 rows for a more dominant stripe.  To increase absorbancy power wash and dry 2-3 times before use.

Using a cotton or bamboo DK yarn (I used Sirdar Summer Stripes) and 4mm needles...

Cast on 3
Row 1 - K1, YO, place marker, K1, YO, K1
Row 2 - purl
Row 3 - K1, M1L, knit to marker, M1L, slip marker, K1, M1R, knit to last stitch, M1R, K1
Row 4 - purl

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until about 65 stitches (the odd row before or after won't make too much difference if you're bad at counting) ending on a row 4.

Complete a picot cast off by casting on 2 stitches, cast off 4, slip stitch back onto left hand needle and repeat to end.  (if you are doing this for a really manly boy then you can just do a normal cast off, but I personally don't feel its too feminine for most)

Cast on 3 and knit 7 1/2 inches of i-cord on double pointed needles. 

Edge the top of the triangle by knitting 2 of the i-cord stitches and slipping the 3rd purlwise, yarn over and pick up one stitch from straight edge. Slip over the slipped stitch and yarn over, so 3 stitches remain on needle. Continue to the end of the triangle. 

Knit a further 7 1/2 inches of 3 stitch i-cord, knit 3 together and thread yarn through remaining stitch.

Weave in ends, and voilà! So cute!

Elf Hat

A quick little elf hat, great for unisex babies and also for stash busting.  It doesn't use much yarn and can incorporate stripes very easily.

Using DK yarn and 4.5mm DPN needles (I used a stash of Rico Poems and and unknown gem hidden in my stash!)

Cast on 56 and space amongst 4 needles (14 per needle)

Knit until 3 inches long (curl unrolled)

[K12, K2TOG] repeat 3 more times

Knit 3 rounds

[K11, K2TOG] repeat 3 more times

Knit 1 round

[K10, K2TOG] repeat 3 more times

Repeat this decrease round (decreasing the last two stitches at the end of each needle) until 5 stitches remain on each needle

Knit 1 round

[K3, K2TOG] repeat 3 more times

Knit 1 round

[K2, K2TOG] repeat 3 more times

[K1, K2TOG] repeat 3 more times

[K2, K2TOG] twice

Knit 1 round

[K1, K2TOG] twice

Transfer onto one needle and turn to i-cord [4 stitches]

Knit i-cord for 1 ½ inches

K1, K2TOG, K1

Knit 3 rows

K1, K2TOG

Knit 1 row

K2TOG

Feed yarn through remaining stitch.

Tie loose knot in the i-cord stem.

Sunrise Seaswim Hat

Is there a better way to celebrate Esther's 30th Birthday than taking a dip in the North Devon sea as the sun makes it's first appearance of the day?  Well yes it turns out there is; knitting a hat ready for when your little hot water bottle (I mean bump) makes it's first appearance of the day whilst everyone else goes in for their second dip of the day!  A simple repetative pattern keeps you on your toes but can easily be done alongside other distractions.  And the use of two yarns makes it that little bit thicker and warmer for an approaching winter baby.

The pattern is to fit a small newborn or larger preemi.  To make suitable for a larger newborn cast on an additional 7 stitches and depending on your guage use 4.5mm needles, continuing for 4 1/2 - 5 inches before decreasing

Using DK yarn and 4mm needles...

Cast on 56 stitches in contrast colour [CC] and join into round (14 on each needle if using DPNs)

Rounds 1-4: K2 P2 rib
Round 5: change to main colour [MC] and K2TOG, K5 ** K1[CC], K6[MC] repeat from ** to end and using first stitch of next round as final stitch for this pattern
Rounds 6 onwards: K5[MC] P1[MC] K1[CC] repeat to end and using first stitch of next round for the next 4 inches (you are purling on the contrast stitch of the row below, then adding in a constrast knit stitch nextdoor to that - this is the main pattern)

Depending how many rows you do will depend where you are in the spiral pattern when you start the decreasing.

Round 29ish: Knit as pattern until first [CC] where it is K2TOG.  Then repeat K4[MC] P1 [MC] K2TOG [CC] to end.
Round 30: Knit as pattern but K4[MC] P1[MC] K1[CC]
repeat these two rounds three more times (with one less main colour knit stitch after each decrease obviously).
Using just [MC] K2TOG to end and thread yarn through remaining 8 stitches.

And voila!  You might need to give a good tug from side to side to even out the coloured raised stitches.

Kensington Steeked Pot

Isn't it funny how fashions change.  Three years ago when I started knitting tea pot cosies I'd have thought how old fashioned this one looked and not touched it.  Now I was so keen to create something that really looked 'knitted' and had block colour texture I couldn't actually find anything 'old' enough!

I'm not a fan of most methods to make the two holes for tea pot cosies, I don't like joining in yarns and leaving stitches on stitch holders, or doing big amounts of awkwardly shaped seaming.  By using steeks and straight edges with a draw string this one avoids that.  There is a need to weave in ends due to the colour knitting but other than that, your cast off/on ends are used to crochet it together and so really minimal finishing.

Using DK yarn and 4mm needles...

Colour A
Cast on 80, leaving a very long cast on tail
rows 1-4: 2x2 rib
Colour B
row 5: knit
row 6: purl
Colour C
row 7: K2, sl1pw, (K3, sl1pw) rep K1
row 8: K1, (YF sl1pw,YB K3) rep K2
Colour B
row 9: K4, (slpw K3) rep
row 10: P3 sl1pw rep P4
row 11: knit
row 12: purl
Colour A
repeat rows 5-6
Colour D
repeat rows 7-8
Colour A
repeat rows 9-12

Repeat these rows 5-12 three more time in any colour combinations, I maintained my B&C and A&D pair swaps.

Colour A
row 41: K2, K2tog, rep
row 42: purl
Colour D
row 43: repeat row 7
row 44: repeat row 8
Colour A
row 45: repeat row 9
row 46: repeat row 10
Colour B
row 47: knit
row 48: purl
row 49: (K1, YO, K2tog) repeat to end
row 50: purl
rows 51 & 52: knit/purl
Colour A
repeat rows 5-6
Colour D
repeat rows 7-8
Colour A
row 57: (KFB 3 times, K1) repeat to end
row 58: purl
Cast off by K2tog, slip stitch from right hand needle to left hand needle, K2tog and repeat to end.  Leave a very long cats off tail.


Knit a 3 stitch i-cord for the tie (in Colour C), it will need to be about 15 inches.  This will thread through the holes created by the yarn overs and pull the cosy in around the tea pot lid.


Now here comes the interesting part... steeks.  It is all based around the columns of stitches 40, 41 and 42 - the needle is showing column 41 here.

Using a 3.5mm crochet hook, using Colour A make a slip knot and place onto the hook.  Stick your hook through the right leg of stitch 41 in row 7 and the left leg of stitch 40 as below.

Wrap the yarn over the hook, and pull yarn through the two Colour C stitches.

Wrap yarn over the hook again and pull yarn through the two Colour A stitches.
Repeat, sticking hook through the right leg of stitch 41 in row 8 and the left leg of stitch 40 as below

Keep going

When you get to row 22, or the 4th set of knit bumps turn your work and continue in the same way but this time stitching through the left leg or stitch 41 and the right leg of stitch 42.

When you get back to where you started, secure the yarn by doing a slip stitch into the starting stitch, and pull yarn through the last loop to secure.

Now, you can take the scissors to your piece of work (yikes!).  If you push down on your two lines of crochet you will see a 'ladder' between them rather than stitches.

This is what you cut - the rungs between the two crochet lines.

And this is where your opening for the spout will be.

Now you will also need to join the two edges/sides between rows 1-8 and from rows 58-27, this can be by crochet like the steeking or matress stitch, which ever suits you.  Then crochet like the steek around the edge between these two, encasing the hole.

Weave in your loose ends, and thread the i-cord through the yarn overs.

And there you go.

Christmas Phoebe-Pud Hat

Using a mix of knitting in the round, i-cord and flat knitting this creates a textured hat of much festive joy that is underneath it all remarkably simple.  Knitting this as an advent present for a dear friend's newly arrived bundle of joy it really made me go quite squishy and want one.  But remember people, a baby is for life not just for wearing hand knitted hats.

Using brown, white/cream, red and green DK yarn and 4mm needles...

For a small head ('very-newborn' - preemi or just tiny delicate cuties) cast on 57 stitches in brown (B) and join into the round by knitting the first and last stitch together.  To make bigger, go up in multiples of 8, making the necessary decreases to have 12 stitches on or around Round 10.

Knit in stockinette for 4 inches, (not stretching the cast on curl).

Join in white(W) yarn and as follows:

Round 1: K2(W), K6(B) until 1 stitch away from (W)

Round 2: K4(W), K4(B) until 1 stitch away from (W)

Round 3: K6(W), K2(B) until 1 stitch away from (W)

Working only in white (W)

Knit 3 stitches, place marker and as follows:

Round 4: K2TOG, K6 until marker

Round 5: K2TOG, K5 until marker

Round 6: K2TOG, K4 until marker

Round 7: K2TOG, K3 until marker

Round 8: K2TOG, K2 until marker

Round 9: K2TOG, K1 until marker

Round 10: K1, (K2TOG, K1 until marker) (10 stitches remain)

Switch to red (R) yarn 

K1, K2TOG, K1

Using DPN with these 3 stitches i-cord in red for 2 inches (or enough to tie a loose knot with the cord)

Switch to green (G) yarn (TIP a varigated/helix yarn works best)  to complete holly leaf.

Row 1: Knit still as i-cord

Row 2: turn and knit as a flat piece going forwards

Row 3: KFB, K1, KFB (5 stitches)

Row 4: KFB, K3, KFB (7 stitches)

Row 5: K2TOGtbl, K3, K2TOG (5 stitches)

Row 6: K2TOGtbl, K1, K2TOG (3 stitches)

Row 7: KFB, K1, KFB (5 stitches)

Row 8: KFB, K3, KFB (7 stitches)

Row 9: K2TOGtbl, K3, K2TOG (5 stitches)

Row 10: K2TOGtbl, K1, K2TOG (3 stitches)

Row 11: Knit

Row 12: sl1, K2TOG, PSSO

Cut yarn and thread through remaining stitch.

Going back to the remaining white stitches, repeat red i-cord and green leaf two more times.

(TIP If necessary, use the tail of the red to join the three i-cords beneath the berry knots with a small stitch in the centre to prevent a hole)  Weave in remaining ends.

Tie a loose knot in the i-cord so the red produces a 'berry' and the leaf pops out of the top.

Stand back and melt with festive adorable cheer.

Teeny Tiny Pixie Mits

For a preemi or very newborn, some little pixie style mits to keep hands warm or face scratch free. If new hands are so teeny tiny the mits dont stay on then lace some ribbon or icord through the eyelets.

Using a slim DK (you know, the ones that say they are but you really wonder how!) and 3.5mm needles...

Cast on 20
rows 1-6 - K1 P1 to end
row 7 - K2TOG YO to end
row 8 - purl
row 9-14 - stocking stitch
row 15 - K3 K2TOG to end (if now you realise you forgot the last YO on row 7 then end with a K2 K2TOG instead!)
row 16 - purl
row 17 - repeat row 15
row 18 - purl
row 19 - K2 K2TOG to end
row 20 - purl
row 21 - knit
row 22 - purl
Thread yarn through remaining stitches and mattress stitch the seam.

Basket Case Coasters

A simple basketweave in the centre, edged with crochet to give a ripple, makes this a very simple but textured double sided coaster.

Using 4mm needles and DK wool (I used sirdar escape for a gentle colour change...

Cast on 20
rows 1-5 - K5, P5, K5, P5
rows 6-11 - P5, K5, P5, K5
rows 12-17 - K5, P5, K5, P5
repeat rows 6-17
On row 29, cast off as you go until you get to the last stitch....

Instead of pulling yarn through this one stitch now becomes your crochet stitch.  Transfer the remaining stitch from the knitting needle to a 3.5mm crochet needle.  Single crochet (UK) in each stitch around the 4 edges of the coaster.

On the second round, in the first stitch single crochet and then chain 3, then single crochet in the next stitch (creating a bump).  Repeat these two combinations until you complete the round.  Slip a stitch to connect the last stitch into the first bump, and pull yarn through.

And there you go.  Beautifully textured, but bizarrely simples!  You might wish to block it out to 4.25" x 4.25" or keep it with a bit of tiny rustic curl.

She Sells Sea Shells on the Sea Shore

Another 'mini' that is for a project on its way (watch this space) but others may want to use for a multitude of things.

Using DK yarn and 2.5mm needles....

For the larger shell...
Cast on 21
row 1 - knit
row 2 - P1 [K3, P1] repeat to end
row 3 - K1 [P3, K1] repeat to end
row 4 - P1 [K3, P1] repeat to end
row 5 - K1 [sl1p, P1, PSSO, P1, K1] repeat to end
row 6 - P1 [K2, P1] repeat to end
row 7 - K1 [sl1p, P1, PSSO, K1] repeat to end
row 8 - P1 [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 9 - K1, [K2TOG] repeat to end
row 10 - P1, slip 4 onto cable needle
wrap yarn around the 4 stitches on cable needle counter clockwise three times
slip back onto needle and P1
row 11 - knit
row 12 - P1, M1P, purl, M1P, P1
row 13 - [K2, KFB] repeat to end, while casting off

For the smaller shell...
Cast on 13
row 1 - knit
row 2 - P1 [K2, P1] repeat to end
row 3 - K1 [P2TOG, K1] repeat to end
row 4 - P1 [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 5 - K1, SSK, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K2TOG, K1
row 6 - P1, sl1, P2TOG, PSSO, P1
wrap yarn around the 3 stitches on needle counter clockwise twice
row 7 - K1, KFB, K1
row 8 - P2, M1P, P2 while casting off

Now as your most likely use for these is applique, then don't bother weaving in the ends but use them to sew onto whatever they are going on.

Mini Life Belt

This is a little accessory to a project I am currently working on (watch this space).  But I thought it would be worth sharing as a 'project' in its own right as could be used in many more ways than originally intended.  Maybe to embellish a water scene jumper, decorate a card for someone achieving the RLSS Lifesaving Award, or adorn a beach themed bathroom. (it looks large but is only 1.5 inches, you could adapt smaller by using 3 or 4 rather than 5 stitches and smaller needles and thinner wool but due to i-cord technique is unlikely to be able to successfully adapt it as bigger).

Using two double pointed needles (DPN) as small as you can manage (2.25ish mm) and DK wool...

In red cast on 5*

Knit 4 rows in red using i-cord technique (instead of turning row, slide to end of needle and pull yarn tight to close gap)...

Change to white and knit 5 rows, being careful when changing rows to pull white yarn behind and under the red tail keeping spare yarn held inside the cord...

Change to red (knotting the yarn in the centre of the i-cord to the white yarn at the end of stitch 5 to ensure it pulls across) and knit 5 rows as above...

Keep alternating until 4 blocks of red and 4 blocks of white have been completed.  As it is a wide i-cord you may need to massage the cord and give it a vertical tug to make sure the wide joining is not noticeable.

* if you are confident with kitchener stitch then join the two ends together, having done a provisional cast on.

Otherwise; thread the remaining white yarn through the 5 stitches from right to left keeping loose for the moment.  Stitch together white and red ends into a circle by catching a red cast on loop and sewing to a white ladder between the stitches you have just sewn (hence keeping it loose to let you see these bits of thread to pick up).  Pull tight to close.

Weave in any ends left over by threading down the centre of the i-cord.

Now, using brownish yarn (to represent the rope) and a tapestry needle thread up inside of cord for half the circle (to secure it within the project rather than knotting), coming out halfway through a red section.  Take around edge of circle to the next red section placing thumb as a spacer to ensure yarn is loose, and stitch through the outside middle red ladder, tying a two little knots.  Take around edge of circle, repeating above, three times.  Tie the next knot to the starting yarn and thread back down into cord, weaving the ends in.

Bridge Coasters

I have named these the Bridge Coasters as they are for my mother and her bridge club, but one could name them the Whist Coasters, Rummie Coasters, or even Snap Coasters!  A series of cables and slip stitches leave a raised pattern, one for each card suit.

Using good old DK wool and 4mm needles for all coasters...

Diamond Drinks Coaster
Cast on 16...

row 1 - knit
row 2 - KFB, K14, KFB (18 stitches)
row 3 - knit
row 4 - KFB, K16, KFB (20 stitches)
row 5 - knit
row 6 - knit
row 7 - knit
row 8 - knit
row 9 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 10 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 11 - K7, c2b, K2, c2f, K7
row 12 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 13 - K6, c2b, K4, c2f, K6
row 14 - K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6
row 15 - K5, c2b, K6, c2f, K5
row 16 - K5, byif, sl1p, byib, K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K5
row 17 - knit
row 18 - K5, byif, sl1p, byib, K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K5
row 19 - K5, c2f, K6, c2b, K5
row 20 - K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6
row 21 - K6, c2f, K4, c2b, K6
row 22 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 23 - K7, c2f, K2, c2b, K7
row 24 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 23 - K8, c2f, c2b, K8
row 24 - K9, byif, sl2p, byib, K9
row 25 - knit
row 26 - knit
row 27 - knit
row 28 - K2TOG, K16, K2TOGtbl (18 stitches)
row 29 - knit
row 30 - K2TOG, K14, K2TOGtbl (16 stitches)
row 31 - knit and cast off

Heart Drinks Coaster
Cast on 16...

row 1 - knit
row 2 - KFB, K14, KFB (18 stitches)
row 3 - knit
row 4 - KFB, K16, KFB (20 stitches)
row 5 - knit
row 6 - knit
row 7 - knit
row 8 - knit
row 9 - knit
row 10 - knit
row 11 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 12 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 13 - K7, c2b, K2, c2f, K7
row 14 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 15 - K6, c2b, K4, c2f, K6
row 16 - K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6
row 17 - K5, c2b, K6, c2f, K5
row 18 - K5, byif, sl1p, byib, K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K5
row 19 - K4, c2b, K8, c2f, K4
row 20 - K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K10, byif, sl1p, byib, K4
row 21 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 22 - K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K3, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K3, byif, sl1p, byib, K4
row 23 - K4, c2f, K1, c2b, K2, c2f, K1, c2b, K4
row 24 - K5, byif, sl1p, P1, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, P1, sl1p, byib, K5
row 25 - knit
row 26 - knit
row 27 - knit
row 28 - K2TOG, K16, K2TOGtbl (18 stitches)
row 29 - knit
row 30 - K2TOG, K14, K2TOGtbl (16 stitches)
row 31 - knit and cast off

Spade Drinks Coaster
Cast on 16...

row 1 - knit
row 2 - KFB, K14, KFB (18 stitches)
row 3 - knit
row 4 - KFB, K16, KFB (20 stitches)
row 5 - knit
row 6 - knit
row 7 - knit
row 8 - knit
row 9 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 10 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 11 - K7, c2b, K2, c2f, K7
row 12 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 13 - K6, c2b, K4, c2f, K6
row 14 - K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K6
row 15 - K5, c2b, K6, c2f, K5
row 16 - K5, byif, sl1p, byib, K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K5
row 17 - K4, c2b, K8, c2f, K4
row 18 - K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K10, byif, sl1p, byib, K4
row 19 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 20 - K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K3, byif, sl1p, P2, sl1p, byib, K3, byif, sl1p, byib, K4
row 21* - K4, c2f, K1, c3b, c3f, K1, c2b, K4
row 22 - K5, byif, sl1p, P1, sl2p, byib, K2, byif, sl2p, P1, sl1p, byib, K5
row 23 - knit
row 24 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 25 - K7, c2b, K2, c2f, K7
row 26 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 27 - knit
row 28 - K2TOG, K16, K2TOGtbl (18 stitches)
row 29 - knit
row 30 - K2TOG, K14, K2TOGtbl (16 stitches)
row 31 - knit and cast off

* c3b is slip one onto cable needle and hold to back, knit 2, then knit 1 off cable needle.
   c2f is slip two onto cable needle and hold in front, knit 1, then knit 2 off cable needle.

Clubs Drinks Coaster
Cast on 16...

row 1 - knit
row 2 - KFB, K14, KFB (18 stitches)
row 3 - knit
row 4 - KFB, K16, KFB (20 stitches)
row 5 - knit
row 6 - knit
row 7 - knit
row 8 - knit
row 9 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 10 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 11 - K7, c2b, K2, c2f, K7
row 12 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 13 - K7, c2f, K2, c2b, K7
row 14 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 15 - K5, c2b, c2f, K2, c2b, c2f, K5
row 16 - K6, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl2p, byib, K6
row 17 - K4, c2b, K8, c2f, K4
row 18 - K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K10, byif, sl1p, byib, K4
row 19 - K8, c2b, c2f, K8
row 20 - K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K3, byif, sl1p, P2, sl1p, byib, K3, byif, sl1p, byib, K4
row 21* - K4, c2f, K1, c3b, c3f, K1, c2b, K4
row 22 - K5, byif, sl1p, P1, sl2p, byib, K2, byif, sl2p, P1, sl1p, byib, K5
row 23 - knit
row 24 - K8, byif, sl1p, byib, K2, byif, sl1p, byib, K8
row 25 - K7, c2b, K2, c2f, K7
row 26 - K7, byif, sl1p, byib, K4, byif, sl1p, byib, K7
row 27 - knit
row 28 - K2TOG, K16, K2TOGtbl (18 stitches)
row 29 - knit
row 30 - K2TOG, K14, K2TOGtbl (16 stitches)
row 31 - knit and cast off

Manly Mini Scarf

For that man who doesn't want a special hand knitted scarf....

My partner wears a scrappy little thing for work and always gets very very cold outside in thermals and umpteen jumpers. Decided it was time he had something to keep the neck properly warm but still retain his manliness. Its a manly version of a cowl, the ribbing providing practical heat retention and the shortness meaning no long flimsy ends to have to tuck in anywhere.  None of the ribbed scarf patterns I found offered stripe options and so decided to tackle it the other way round and do horizontal rather than vertical. I wanted to make the hole without interrupting the colour trail of the wool (vertical ribbed scarves make you leave half the stitches on a neelde and do the other half before returning back and then joining - this would be havock with self striping/varigated yarn). So my horizontal option lets you make the hole via cast on/of without interrupting the colour flow and keeping it all as one part.

Two main stitches used here; stocking (knit right side, purl wrong side) and reverse stocking (purl right side, knit wrong side) in quartuplets of rows, to give a mock ribbing effect equivalent to K4, P4, but it ends up looking softer as the purl takes dominance instead. [right side are odd rows, wrong side are even rows]

Using DK and 4mm needles (I advise using circular to fit stitches on)...

Cast on 105 in blue
rows 1-4 - stocking
rows 5-8 - reverse stocking
rows 9-12 - stocking
rows 13-16 - reverse stocking
change to grey
rows 17-20 - stocking
rows 21-24 - reverse stocking
rows 25-28 - stocking
rows 29-32 - reverse stocking
change to blue
rows 33-36 - stocking
rows 37-39 - reverse stocking
row 40 - cast off 15 stitches, knit 90
row 41 - knit 90, turn needles and cast on 15 stitches
rows 42-44 - stocking
rows 45-48 - reverse stocking
change to grey
rows 49-52 - stocking
rows 53-56 - reverse stocking
rows 57-60 - stocking
rows 61-64 - reverse stocking
change to blue
rows 64-68 - stocking
rows 69-72 - reverse stocking
rows 73-76 - stocking
rows 77-80 - reverse stocking and cast off

In grey pick up 22 stitches along right hand edge (the bit that splits into two sections)... 2 stitches from each wrong side 'rib', and one at the end of the each section (which will be from right side 'rib').
rows 81-84 - stocking
rows 85-88 - reverse stocking
rows 89-92 - stocking
rows 93-96 - reverse stocking
change to blue
rows 97-100 - stocking
rows 101-104 - reverse stocking
rows 105-108 - stocking
rows 109-112 - reverse stocking and cast off


In grey pick up 22 stitches along left hand edge... 2 stitches from each right side rib plus the first and last stitch.  Follow rows 81-104.

Patterns I love that helped give me some inspiration to put this pattern together include:

• Knitomatic.com Easy Mobius Cowl
• Nebula Designs Ribbed Mini-Scarf

Ivy Leaf Cord

A quick little number either to make bottle dressings like the leaf or lavender ones, or for more adventurous Christmas wreath like decorations.

Using any wool and the thinnest double pointed needles you can muster without snapping! (don't forget the K2TOG tug tight)
I used DK and 2.25mm....

Cast on 23 stitches
row 1 - K2, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K5, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K5, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K2
row 2 - purl whole row
row 3 - K1, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K3, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K3, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K1
row 4 - purl 8, turn leaving remaining 3 stitches on needle
row 5 - K1, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K1, turn leaving remaining 3 stitches on needle
row 6 - purl 6 to end
row 7 - K1, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K1, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K1
row 8 - purl
row 9 - K1, sl1 K2TOG PSSO, K1

Now you can use these 3 stitches to i-cord, sliding along to end of needle, knit, pulling thread tight across the back, sliding across to the end of the needle again, and pulling tight.

This is the point where I say.... if you are thinking of making a wreath or a string of ivy... I advise having 3 double pointed needles, and using the wool from both ends of the ball.

Leaving the ivy leaf and 11 stitches of i-cord on needle 1, start a new ivy leaf from the other end of the ball of wool using needles 2 and 3, after 7 stitches of i-cord K2TOG leaving 2 stitches and cut yarn removing from ball. Hold needle 2 in front of needle 1 and knit the stitches together using active yarn from first leaf (like a double bind off), the stitches 1 and 2 of the needle 2 leaf with first 2 stitches of needle 1 leaf then the one remaining of needle 1 leaf and continue i-cording as normal.

Add in more ivy leaves as above, knit the 2 stitches first to put the leaf on right, or knit 1 of needle 1 and then the 2 stitches to put the leaf on left.

Lavender cord and bottle topper

Following on from the mint leaf cord and bottle topper to top off my mint vodka, a complimentary lavender option seemed appropriate.  Again, no seams, all in one piece.  I don't expect everyone is out brewing lavender vodka but it could also be used for bathroom related products!

Unlike the leaf, it is all done in an i-cord style - sliding the stitches to the other end of a double pointed needle which in effect makes it knitting in the round.

So, first for the cord...
Using two 2.75mm double pointed needles and DK yarn...


Cast on 3
row 1 - knit
row 2 - K1, [YO,YO, K1]
row 3 - KFB [YO, YO, KFB]
row 4 - K1 [YO, YO, K1]
row 5 - K2TOG (remembering to drop the YOs)
row 6 - knit

Give what you have knitted so far a light tug and it will expand the YOs and look a bit lacey and a bit loopy (don't pull too hard and loose the loops totally!).

Continue to knit i-cord, once i-cord is long enough to wrap round bottle in a loose 'tear drop' shape, then K1, pick up a top stitch from row 5 of the i-cord and K2TOG (middle stitch plus stitch you picked up) and K1. Do 8 more rows of i-cord. Now time to do the final blossom. *

row 7 - KFB [YO, YO, KFB]
row 8 - K1 [YO, YO, K1]
row 9 - K2TOG (remembering to drop row 8's YOs) [YO, YO, K2TOG]
row 10 - K1 [YO, YO, K1]
row 11 - knit
thread remaining yarn through last 3 stitches.

Weave in both ends up the centre of the blossom being careful not to pull too tight and flatten the pointed ends, and pull into the centre of the i-cord through to the middle of the loop.

And for the lavender topper

Using four 2.75mm double pointed needles and DK yarn...

Cast on 24 stitches, 8 per needle
rounds 1 - 7 [K2 P2] rib
round 8 - knit
round 9 - [K1, K2TOG] (you will have to slip stitches from one needle to the next to allow the K2TOG)
round 10 - knit
round 11 - K1, K2TOG
round 12 - K2TOG until last stitch
round 13 - K2TOG
Place remaining 3 stitches on one needle and do 11 rows of i-cord. Then follow blossom pattern rows 7 - 11.

Leaf cord and bottle topper

I wanted to jazz up some home made liquor as a present - how better than to adorn it than with knitting?! This option is a mint vodka in a one-glass wine bottle so I prepared an i-cord with mint leaves on each end - all knitted in one piece (no seams!). I am also working on a lavender vodka and aiming to do lavender ended i-cord... watch this space! This is perfect because it takes a matter of minutes and only a smidgen of your stash yarn. You can adapt it to the right size for whatever bottle/jar/item you wrap it around. Hey, you can even ammend the beggining and end and be more creative than my leaf and lavender - let me know how you get on! Christmas is sorted for hundreds of years with a variety of knitted up drinks, preserves, bath products and so on! Enjoy!

So, first for the cord...
Using two 2.75mm double pointed needles and DK yarn...
Make slip knot
row 1 - P1
row 2 - KFBF - Knit in the front, without sliding stitch off needle knit in the back, and then the front again before sliding off (1 stitch becomes 3)
row 3 - P3
row 4 - K1, M1R, K1, M1L, K1
row 5 - P5
row 6 - K1, M1R, K3, M1L, K1
row 7 - P7
row 8 - K7
row 9 - P7
row 10 - SKP, S2KP, K2TOG
row 11 - P1, P1tbl, P1
row 12 - K1, K1tbl, K1

Now knit a 3 stitch i-cord - instead of turning after row 12, slide stitches to the other end of the needle, and knit, pulling thread tightly behind. Keep knitting and sliding, knitting and sliding and the cord will look like the type you get on knitting dollies.

Once i-cord is long enough to wrap round bottle in a loose 'tear drop' shape, then K1, pick up a top stitch from row 5 of the i-cord and K2TOG (middle stitch plus stitch you picked up) and K1. Do 4 more rows of i-cord. Now time to do the final leaf (back to turning work each row rather than sliding). *

row 13 - K1, K1tbl, K1
row 14 - P1, Ptbl, P1
row 15 - K1, [M1R, YO, K1tbl, YO, M1L all in one stitch], K1
row 16 - P7
row 17 - K7
row 18 - P7
row 19 - K1, SKP, K1, K2TOG, K1
row 20 - P5
row 21 - K1, S2KP, K1
row 22 - P3
row 23 - S2KP
Cut yarn and thread through last stitch.

Weave in both ends up the leaf being careful not to pull too tight and flatten the pointed ends, and pull into the centre of the i-cord through to the middle of the loop.

Voila!  A pretty present presto!

 * if that all sounds too complicated, you have several options - continuing as simple i-cord and then moving onto the leaf. Partway through weaving your ends in then use the yarn to pop a small stitch joining both ends of the i-cord to hold together. Or, you can keep doing your i-cord much longer and once piece is knitted then tie in either a knot or bow around the bottle. The world is your oyster.
And for the leaf topper

Using four 2.75mm double pointed needles and DK yarn...

Cast on 24 stitches, 8 per needle
rounds 1 - 7 [K2 P2] rib
round 8 - knit
round 9 - [K1, K2TOG] (you will have to slip stitches from one needle to the next to allow the K2TOG)
round 10 - knit
round 11 - K1, K2TOG
round 12 - K2TOG until last stitch
round 13 - K2TOG
Place remaining 3 stitches on one needle and do 5 rows of i-cord.  Then follow leaf pattern rows 13 - 23.

Bobble Lace Scarf

Ok, so this isn't a new pattern, it's one I did nearly a year ago, but still worth putting up here whilst I refine my new pattern with the remaining ball of pompom yarn!

I used Rico Design Pompon Print yarn and rather than doing the plain looking chunky scarf advertised in the design on its label I wanted one of those whispy evening scarves I'd seen. So ignore the K2 between each bobble written on its label to keep it whispy. To cast on, simply loop the thread between the bobbles and twist before putting on the needle. In three simple rows you have knitted your scarf.

Using 8mm needles (circular helpful due to knitting scarf length wise) and pompom yarn...

Cast on 85 (this counts as a row)
Knit one row
Knit with 3 bobbles between each stitch
Instead of doing a knit cast off for the final row (you don't want another chunky row) slip each stitch but then cast off. (so, slip stitch, slip stitch, pass first stitch over second, slip and so on...)

Little Owls Smartphone Case

OK, so you might guess my favourite colour, and favourite animal from yet another case design....! I got a new phone and quickly needed something to protect it, cue whipping off a quick knitted case with a rib and owl repeat.

Using DK wool and 3.5mm needles...

Cast on 32
row 1 - K2, [P4, K4] rep to last two stitches, K2
row 2 - P2, [K4, P4] rep to last two stitches, P2
unless stated, repeat rows 1 on right side & 2 on wrong side

row 7 - K2, P4, c2b, c2f, P4, K4, P4, c2b, c2f, P4, K2
*
row 10 - P2, K4, c2f(p), c2b(p), K4, P4, K4, c2f(p), c2b(p), K4, P2
*
row 13 - repeat row 7
*
row 21 - repeat rows 7-13
*
row 31 - K1, [YO, K2TOG] to end
*
row 38 - cast off following rib pattern

Sew french knots for eyes on the 4 owls, and then mattress stitch a seam down the side and along bottom using long cast off end.

The idea is to be a snug fit, my phone (Samsung Galaxy Ace) is 11cm x 5cm x 1cm. The ribs are a size to fit a 'chunky' phone (i.e. iPhone 4 square edge rather than 3 curved taper) and nicely edge it, but I'm sure would also fit more slimline models too. Let me know how it looks and fits for other models.

Patterns I love that helped give me some inspiration to put this pattern together include:

• My Knitting Basket Owl Cup Cosy
• Charlotte Nash Knits and Spins iPod Cosy

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Cream Cooler

By using a cosy on your jug it will either keep your cream cool, or your chocolate sauce hot - multi purpose!! The self striping wool I used has a brown top which I think is perfect for 'hiding' those chocolate sauce spills - have a play round with different wools and see what works for you. By slipping the cable stitches on the wrong side it elongates the stitch and makes it stand out in this pretty lattice.

Use an aran wool about 10 ply (I used Rico Designs Poem however you may want to use one that isn't handwash only) and 4.5mm needles. You will also need two short ribbons.

Cast on 48 (makes 6 diamonds of 8 stitches each)
row 1 - [K3, c2b, K3] rep to end
row 2 - [P3, sl2, P3] rep to end
row 3 - [K2, c2b, c2f, K2] rep to end
row 4 - [P2, sl1, P2, sl1, P2] rep to end
row 5 - [K1, c2b, K2, c2f, K1] rep to end
row 6 - [P1, sl1, P4, sl1, P1] rep to end
row 7 - [c2b, K4, c2f] rep to end
row 8 - [sl1, P6, sl1] rep to end
row 9 - K7, [c2f, K6] rep 3 more times, K1
row 10 - sl1, YO, P2TOG, P4, sl1, [sl1, P6, sl1] rep 3 more times, sl1, P4, P2TOG, YO, sl1 (1st button holes)
row 11 - [c2f, K4, c2b] rep to end
row 12 - [P1, sl1, P4, sl1, P1] rep to end
row 13 - [K1, c2f, K2, c2b, K1] rep to end
row 14 - [P2, sl1, P2, sl1, P2] rep to end
row 15 - [K2, c2f, c2b, K2] rep to end
row 16 - [P3, sl2, P3] rep to end
row 17 - K2, sl1, PSSO, c2b, K3, [K3, c2b, K3] rep 3 more times, K3, c2b, K2TOG, K1
row 18 - P2, sl2, P3, [P3, sl2, P3] rep 3 more times, P3, sl2, P2
row 19 - K1, sl1, PSSO, c2f, K2, [K2, c2b, c2f, K2] rep 3 more times, K2, c2b, K2TOG, K1
row 20 - P1, sl1, P1, sl1, P2, [P2, sl1, P2, sl1, P2] rep 3 more times, P2, sl1, P1, sl1, P1
row 21 - K1, sl1, PSSO, c2f, K1, [K1, c2b, K2, c2f, K1] rep 3 more times, K1, c2b, K2TOG, K1
row 22 - P3, sl1, P1, [P1, sl1, P4, sl1, P1] rep 3 more times, P1, sl1, P3
row 24 - K1, YO, K2TOG, c2f, [c2b, K4, c2f] rep 3 more times, c2b, K2TOG, YO, K1 (2nd button holes)
row 25 - casting off as you go... P4, sl1 [sl1, P6, sl1] rep 3 more times, sl1, P4

Use the cast on tail to join the base with four mattress stitches (or however many it takes to get to base of handle). Weave in the end at the top. Thread ribbon through the button holes and tie in a bow to secure on jug.

I got my jug from a local potter at Yandles 303 Gallery, but it should fit most 350ml milk jugs, you may just need to tweak the mattress stitch join, height of button holes to fit the handle (swap two purls for YO, P2TOG at the beginning and end of the row), and you may also need to mattress stitch at the top of the handle.

Union Flag Coasters

This is more of a colour work tweak of Girl on the rock's pattern than an original, but here goes. A friend bought a new house and had a union flag puff and union flag mugs... so what else would I do than knit him some union flag inspired coasters to fit the colour scheme?

I recommend making two balls of white, and two of blue, this means for each diagonal stripe you aren't trailing wool on the wrong side. It will still get quite tangled if you aren't careful, but as it's only 22 rows of colour changing you should manage it if you do get a bit of a tangle.

Cast on 45 in red
row 1 - K21, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K21
row 2 and all even rows - knit all
row 3 - K20, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K20
row 5 - K19, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K19
row 7 - K18, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K18
row 9 - change to white wool; K17, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K17
row 11 - K16, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K16
row 13 - K11 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K11 blue
row 14 - K11 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K11 blue
row 15 - K10 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K10 blue
row 16 - K10 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K10 blue
row 17 - K9 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K9 blue
row 18 - K9 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K9 blue
row 19 - K8 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K8 blue
row 20 - K8 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K8 blue
row 21 - K7 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K7 blue
row 22 - K7 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K7 blue
row 23 - K6 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K6 blue
row 24 - K6 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K6 blue
row 25 - K5 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K5 blue
row 26 - K5 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K5 blue
row 27 - K4 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K4 blue
row 28 - K4 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K4 blue
row 29 - K3 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K3 blue
row 30 - K3 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K3 blue
row 31 - K2 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K2 blue
row 32 - K2 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K2 blue
row 33 - K1 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K1 blue
row 34 - K1 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K1 blue
row 35 - K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white
row 36 - K3 white, K3 red, K3 white
row 37 - K2 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K2 white
row 38 - K2 white, K3 red, K2 white
row 39 - K1 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K1 white
row 40 - K1 white, K3 red, K1 white
row 41 - K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red,
row 42 - K3 red
row 43 - sl1, K2TOG, PSSO red
Thread yarn through remaining stitch, and weave in the ends.

And presto, a retro coaster promto!