Nemo Tea Cosy

How better to warm your tea than with a novelty fish?! Ribbing makes the fins 'realistically spinous'. The modular pattern includes some colour work putting black and white stripes in; detailed instructions for each section and a chart should guide you through. Crochet edging is done in black to give the final stripe on the tip of the fins - if you have never crocheted before this is a relatively simple crochet. Have a look at attic 24 if you get stuck as she has more patience in putting up step by step photos!. The actual knitting should be relatively easy, it's just the changing of colour in places that can look onerous on the pattern and make it appear more complicated. I personally found having a smaller fin true nemo style looked a bit weird so have written the instructions and chart for his "lucky" fin, but you might prefer to just make two of the pectoral fins instead.

For a 2-3 cup tea pot, use 4mm needles and DK wool....

Body: (make one)
There are four simple 'rules' for the body... on the odd rows (RS), purl the first 4 stitches then knit all others. On even rows (WS) purl all stitches. On increase rows (always WS) M1P in the second stitch and on a decrease row (also always WS) P2TOG the second and third stitch. Increase rows are rows 1-26 and 43-52, and decrease rows are 32-42 and 59-84. Rows 27-31 and 53-58 are "normal", no increases or decreases.

Cast on 18
row 1 - P4, knit to end
row 2 - P1, M1p, purl to end (increase)
repeat rows 1 and 2 six more times
row 15 - continue in black
rows 16-18 - continue in white
row 19 - continue in black
rows 20-26 - continue in orange (last row at 31 stitches)
Stop the increase
rows 27-31 - continue in orange with no increases
row 32 - start decrease
row 33 - continue in black
rows 34-37 - continue in white
row 38 - continue in black
rows 39-41 - continue in orange (last row 26 stitches)
row 42 - P5, cast off 16, P5 [HALFWAY POINT - hole for handle]
row 43 - P4, K1, cast on 16, K5
rows 44-46 - increase
row 47 - continue increase in black
rows 48-51 - continue increase in white
row 52 - continue increase in black (last row 31 stitches)
rows 53-58 - continue in orange, no increase
rows 59-65 - decrease in orange
rows 66 - continue decrease in black
rows 67-69 - continue decrease in white
row 70 - continue decrease in black
rows 71-83 - continue decrease in orange
row 84 - cast off and leave long enough end to join

When body is finished, join the top together using mattress stitch and cast off end. Take care to line black and white stripes up.

Dorsal Fin: (make one)
Cast on 6 stitches
row 1 - KFB, P1, K1, P1, KFB, P1
row 2 - [KFB, P] repeat 4 times
row 3 - [P1, K1] repeat 6 times
row 4 - [K1, P1] repeat 6 times
row 5 - [P1, K2TOG] repeat 4 times
row 6 - K2TOG and cast off

Along top edge, tie black to the cast off orange thread, slip stitch (1), then double crochet 4 times around edge (into orange cast off stitches - 2 & 3), slip stitch (4) and finish.

Weave in cast off black end, and use cast on orange end to sew onto body. TIP: run cast off orange thread and black cast on thread along the fin edge and contain within the crochet stitches as you go, to save weaving in.

Pectoral Fins: (either make one and the "Lucky fin" or make two)
Cast on 9
row 1 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 2 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 3 - KFB, [P1, K1] 3 times, P1, KFB (11 stitches)
row 4 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 5 - [P1, KFB] 2 times, P1, K1, [P1, KFB] 2 times, P1 (15 stitches)
row 6 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 7 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 8 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 9 - [P1, KFB] 3 times, P1, K1, [P1, KFB] 3 times, P1 (21 stitches)
row 10 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 11 - SSK, [P1, K1] repeat 8 times, P1, K2TOG (19 stitches)
row 12 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 13 - SSK, P1, SSK, [P1, K1] 4 times, P1, K2TOG, P1, K2TOG
row 14 - knit and cast off
In black wool crochet as with the dorsal fin (with 15 double crochet instead) into the orange cast off stitches.

"Lucky" Fin: (make one, unless having two normal side fins)
Cast on 4
row 1 – [K1, P1] 2 times
row 2 – [KFB, P1] 2 times
row 3 – P1, KFB, P1, K1, P1, KFB
row 4 – [K1, P1] 4 times
row 5 – SSK, SSK, K2TOG, K2TOG
row 6 – Knit and cast off
In black wool crochet as with the dorsal fin into the orange cast off stitches.

Tail: (make one)
WHITE
Cast on 9
row 1 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 2 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 3 - KFB, [P1, K1] 3 times, P1, KFB (11 stitches)
row 4 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
Change to BLACK
row 5 - [P1, KFB] 2 times, P1, K1, [P1, KFB] 2 times, P1 (15 stitches)
Change to ORANGE
row 6 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 7 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 8 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 9 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 10 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 11 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 12 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 13 - [P1, KFB] 3 times, P1, K1, [P1, KFB] 3 times, P1 (21 stitches)
row 14 - [K1, P1] repeat to end
row 15 - SSK, [P1, K1] repeat 8 times, P1, K2TOG (19 stitches)
row 16 - [P1, K1] repeat to end
row 17 - SSK, P1, SSK, [P1, K1] 4 times, P1, K2TOG, P1, K2TOG
row 18 - knit and cast off
In black wool crochet as with the dorsal fin (with 15 double crochet instead) into the orange cast off stitches.

Make up
Mattress stitch the sides of the body together (wrong side facing in), starting above spout with cast off end at the front (narrower shorter stripe) going to the join at handle (the cast off/cast on hole). Sew on the dorsal fin at top, pectoral fins (or pectoral fin and "lucky" fin) at side of body in the orange patch and then the tail on the edge of the handle 'hole'. If you are right handed then put the tail on the left side of the handle, if left handed put it on the right side. This means when your hand goes to pick it up your hand should push the fin out of the way of the handle instead of getting tangled. Now for the eyes you have a choice - buttons, or crochet a circle in black and edge in white (similar to rounds 1 and 2 on attic 24's page). Or even googly eyes. Or felt eyes. Just find some eyes that you like and stick/sew 'em on. I used black buttons on top of white buttons because I like that cottage crafty hand-made look.

Patterns I love that helped give me some inspiration to put this pattern together include:

• Trampled by Geese Elephants on the Tea Cosy
• Jessica Woofter Clown Fish Crochet Pattern

Union Flag Coasters

This is more of a colour work tweak of Girl on the rock's pattern than an original, but here goes. A friend bought a new house and had a union flag puff and union flag mugs... so what else would I do than knit him some union flag inspired coasters to fit the colour scheme?

I recommend making two balls of white, and two of blue, this means for each diagonal stripe you aren't trailing wool on the wrong side. It will still get quite tangled if you aren't careful, but as it's only 22 rows of colour changing you should manage it if you do get a bit of a tangle.

Cast on 45 in red
row 1 - K21, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K21
row 2 and all even rows - knit all
row 3 - K20, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K20
row 5 - K19, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K19
row 7 - K18, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K18
row 9 - change to white wool; K17, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K17
row 11 - K16, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K16
row 13 - K11 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K11 blue
row 14 - K11 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K11 blue
row 15 - K10 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K10 blue
row 16 - K10 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K10 blue
row 17 - K9 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K9 blue
row 18 - K9 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K9 blue
row 19 - K8 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K8 blue
row 20 - K8 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K8 blue
row 21 - K7 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K7 blue
row 22 - K7 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K7 blue
row 23 - K6 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K6 blue
row 24 - K6 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K6 blue
row 25 - K5 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K5 blue
row 26 - K5 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K5 blue
row 27 - K4 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K4 blue
row 28 - K4 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K4 blue
row 29 - K3 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K3 blue
row 30 - K3 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K3 blue
row 31 - K2 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K2 blue
row 32 - K2 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K2 blue
row 33 - K1 blue, K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white, K1 blue
row 34 - K1 blue, K3 white, K3 red, K3 white, K1 blue
row 35 - K3 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K3 white
row 36 - K3 white, K3 red, K3 white
row 37 - K2 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K2 white
row 38 - K2 white, K3 red, K2 white
row 39 - K1 white, K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red, K1 white
row 40 - K1 white, K3 red, K1 white
row 41 - K1, sl1, K2TOG, PSSO, K1 red,
row 42 - K3 red
row 43 - sl1, K2TOG, PSSO red
Thread yarn through remaining stitch, and weave in the ends.

And presto, a retro coaster promto!

Esther and Tom's wedding gift

Alongside a gift from 'the list' I wanted to give something a bit more personal for my friends wedding, so decided to knit a little commemorative 'pic' to put in a heart shaped frame.

I have created a chart to show how to recreate this, obviously you would need to change the date to one of relevance for you. Initially I put in a map of Italy (honeymoon destination) and some hearts but you loose about 4 stitches on each side due to overlap with the frame and it didn't look too great, so I went for something slightly less complicated. You can also adapt the colour of the ranunculus (but I wouldn't blame you for mistaking it for a rose) to match the bouquets to add that finished touch.


Using DK wool and 3.5mm needles, knit from bottom up according to chart (as PDF in case web pages don't display well) or using instructions below, knitting on odd rows and purling on even rows.  Default colour is turquoise, and other colours listed per stitch as they are used.

Cast on 20
row 1 - KFB, K18, KFB
row 2 - purl
row 3 - KFB, K20, KFB
row 4 - PFB, P22, PFB
row 5 - KFB, K24, KFB
row 6 - PFB, P26, PFB
row 7 - knit (30 stitches)

row 8 - purl

row 9 - knit

row 10 - P4, [P1pale blue, P1] four times, P4pale blue, P2, P2pale blue, P3, P2pale blue, P5

row 11 - K4, K1pale blue, K2, K1pale blue, K1, K1pale blue, K2, K1pale blue, K1, K1pale blue, K5, K1pale blue, K3, K1pale blue, K5

row 12 - P5, P1pale blue, P3, P1pale blue, P4, P2pale blue, P1, P1pale blue, P2, P1pale blue, P1, P1pale blue, P7

row 13 - K6, K1pale blue, K3, K2pale blue, K1, K1white, K2, K1pale blue, K1, K1white, K1, K1pale blue, K3, K1pale blue, K5

row 14 - P5, P1pale blue, P3, P1pale blue, P2, P1pale blue, P4, P1pale blue, P2, P1pale blue, P3, P1pale blue, P5

row 15 - K4, K1pale blue, K4, K1pale blue, K2, K1pale blue, K1, K1pale blue, K2, K1pale blue, K2, K1pale blue, K3, K1pale blue, K5

row 16 - P4, [P1pale blue, P1] four times, P1, P2pale blue, P3, P2pale blue, P2, P4pale blue, P4

row 17 - knit

row 18 - purl

row 19 - K17, K1green, K12

row 20 - P8, P1green, P4, P1green, P1, P1green, P14

row 21 - K15, K2green, K4, K3green, K6

row 22 - P9, P1green, P3, P1green, P2white, P3, P1green, P10

row 23 - SSK, K9, K1green, K1, K2white, K4cream, K1, K1green, K7, K2TOG

row 24 - P9, P1cream, P1white, P1cream, P4white, P2green, P2, P1green, P7

row 25 - SSK, K6, K2green, K1, K1green, K4white, K3cream, K7, K2TOG

row 26 - P8, P2white, P1cream, P4white, P2green, P9

row 27 - SSK, K8, K1green, K2white, K1green, K5white, K5, K2TOG

row 28 - P6, P1green, P5white, P1green, P1white, P3green, P7

row 29 - SSK, K8, K1green, K5white, K1green, K5, K2TOG

row 30 - P7, P1white, P4green, P1, P1green, P8

row 31 - SSK, K5, K1green, K3, K4green, K5, K2TOG

row 32 - P5, P1green, P2, P1green, P5, P1green, P5

row 33 - SSK, K2, K2green, K12, K2TOG

row 34 - P9, P3, P1green, P1, P1green, P3

row 35 - SSK, K14 K2TOG

row 36 - purl

row 37 - SSK, K12, K2TOG

row 38 - purl

row 39 - SSK, K10, K2TOG

row 40 - P2TOG, P8, P2TOG

row 41 - SSK, K6, K2TOG

row 42 - purl

row 43 - SSK, K4, K2TOG

row 44 - cast off purlwise whilst P2TOG, P2, P2TOG

Once cast off, you shouldn't need to block the design simply tack it to the wooden frame insert.  It might help to put some pretty paper underneath in case loose knitting shows gaps.

The photo frame I used was this one here at Not On The High Street.