Variegated Dribbler

I am a big fan of  Kate Blackburn's Baby Bandana Bib but find its shape doesn't suit self striping yarn so well. So have developed this one to allow some shapely striping to take place, whilst hopefully still keeping the simplicity.  If you don't have a self striping/variegated yarn to hand, just switch yarns every 2 rows for a more dominant stripe.  To increase absorbancy power wash and dry 2-3 times before use.

Using a cotton or bamboo DK yarn (I used Sirdar Summer Stripes) and 4mm needles...

Cast on 3
Row 1 - K1, YO, place marker, K1, YO, K1
Row 2 - purl
Row 3 - K1, M1L, knit to marker, M1L, slip marker, K1, M1R, knit to last stitch, M1R, K1
Row 4 - purl

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until about 65 stitches (the odd row before or after won't make too much difference if you're bad at counting) ending on a row 4.

Complete a picot cast off by casting on 2 stitches, cast off 4, slip stitch back onto left hand needle and repeat to end.  (if you are doing this for a really manly boy then you can just do a normal cast off, but I personally don't feel its too feminine for most)

Cast on 3 and knit 7 1/2 inches of i-cord on double pointed needles. 

Edge the top of the triangle by knitting 2 of the i-cord stitches and slipping the 3rd purlwise, yarn over and pick up one stitch from straight edge. Slip over the slipped stitch and yarn over, so 3 stitches remain on needle. Continue to the end of the triangle. 

Knit a further 7 1/2 inches of 3 stitch i-cord, knit 3 together and thread yarn through remaining stitch.

Weave in ends, and voilà! So cute!

Kensington Steeked Pot

Isn't it funny how fashions change.  Three years ago when I started knitting tea pot cosies I'd have thought how old fashioned this one looked and not touched it.  Now I was so keen to create something that really looked 'knitted' and had block colour texture I couldn't actually find anything 'old' enough!

I'm not a fan of most methods to make the two holes for tea pot cosies, I don't like joining in yarns and leaving stitches on stitch holders, or doing big amounts of awkwardly shaped seaming.  By using steeks and straight edges with a draw string this one avoids that.  There is a need to weave in ends due to the colour knitting but other than that, your cast off/on ends are used to crochet it together and so really minimal finishing.

Using DK yarn and 4mm needles...

Colour A
Cast on 80, leaving a very long cast on tail
rows 1-4: 2x2 rib
Colour B
row 5: knit
row 6: purl
Colour C
row 7: K2, sl1pw, (K3, sl1pw) rep K1
row 8: K1, (YF sl1pw,YB K3) rep K2
Colour B
row 9: K4, (slpw K3) rep
row 10: P3 sl1pw rep P4
row 11: knit
row 12: purl
Colour A
repeat rows 5-6
Colour D
repeat rows 7-8
Colour A
repeat rows 9-12

Repeat these rows 5-12 three more time in any colour combinations, I maintained my B&C and A&D pair swaps.

Colour A
row 41: K2, K2tog, rep
row 42: purl
Colour D
row 43: repeat row 7
row 44: repeat row 8
Colour A
row 45: repeat row 9
row 46: repeat row 10
Colour B
row 47: knit
row 48: purl
row 49: (K1, YO, K2tog) repeat to end
row 50: purl
rows 51 & 52: knit/purl
Colour A
repeat rows 5-6
Colour D
repeat rows 7-8
Colour A
row 57: (KFB 3 times, K1) repeat to end
row 58: purl
Cast off by K2tog, slip stitch from right hand needle to left hand needle, K2tog and repeat to end.  Leave a very long cats off tail.


Knit a 3 stitch i-cord for the tie (in Colour C), it will need to be about 15 inches.  This will thread through the holes created by the yarn overs and pull the cosy in around the tea pot lid.


Now here comes the interesting part... steeks.  It is all based around the columns of stitches 40, 41 and 42 - the needle is showing column 41 here.

Using a 3.5mm crochet hook, using Colour A make a slip knot and place onto the hook.  Stick your hook through the right leg of stitch 41 in row 7 and the left leg of stitch 40 as below.

Wrap the yarn over the hook, and pull yarn through the two Colour C stitches.

Wrap yarn over the hook again and pull yarn through the two Colour A stitches.
Repeat, sticking hook through the right leg of stitch 41 in row 8 and the left leg of stitch 40 as below

Keep going

When you get to row 22, or the 4th set of knit bumps turn your work and continue in the same way but this time stitching through the left leg or stitch 41 and the right leg of stitch 42.

When you get back to where you started, secure the yarn by doing a slip stitch into the starting stitch, and pull yarn through the last loop to secure.

Now, you can take the scissors to your piece of work (yikes!).  If you push down on your two lines of crochet you will see a 'ladder' between them rather than stitches.

This is what you cut - the rungs between the two crochet lines.

And this is where your opening for the spout will be.

Now you will also need to join the two edges/sides between rows 1-8 and from rows 58-27, this can be by crochet like the steeking or matress stitch, which ever suits you.  Then crochet like the steek around the edge between these two, encasing the hole.

Weave in your loose ends, and thread the i-cord through the yarn overs.

And there you go.

Bobble Car Seat Blanket

A sampler style pattern of several different stitches designed to be easy to use with baby's car seat.  The slits allow you to clip in with the buckle on the outside, and little darling cannot kick it off during the journey!

Using DK wool (I like Sirdar Snuggly as washes and drys well and is super soft) and 4mm needles, make four of each square...

Slip Stitch Honeycomb [H]
Cast on 25
row 1 & 3 - knit
row 2 - K1, * sl1p wyib, K1 - repeat from *
row 4 - K2, * sl1p wyib, K1 - repeat from *
repeat rows 1-4 eight more times, or until it forms a square, cast off on row 37

Scale [S]
Cast on 24
row 1 - YO, K3, pass YO over the K3, wyib sl3p - repeat to end
row 2 - knit
row 3 - YO, K3, pass the YOP over the K3, P3 - repeat to end
row 4 - K1, use RH needle to lift thread from YO in row 1, knit it with the next stitch, K4 - repeat to end
row 5 - wyib sl3p, YO, K3, pass the YO over the K3 - repeat to end
row 6 - knit
row 7 -  P3, YO, K3, pass YO over the K3, - repeat to end
row 8 - K4, use RH needle to lift thread from YO in row 5, knit it with the next stitch, K1 - repeat to end
repeat rows 1-8 three more times, or until it forms a square, cast off purl wise on row 33

(American) Double Moss [M]
Cast on 20
row 1&4 - K2, P2, repeat to end
row 2&3 - P2, K2, repeat to end
repeat rows 1-4 six and a half more times, until it forms a square, casting off on row 31

Bobble [B]
MB - [K1, P1, K1] in stitch, turn and P3, turn and K3, turn and P3, turn and K3TOG

Cast on 20
row 1 - knit
row 2 and all evens - purl
row 3 - K7, [MB, K5] repeat, end K6
row 5 - knit
row 7 - K4, [MB, K5] repeat, end K3
row 8 purl
repeat rows 1-8 two more times, until it forms a square, casting off on row 25

Joining
Using the long tails, crochet down the left hand side and along the bottom of most squares, ordered as below:

M  S  B  H

S  B  H  M

B  H  M  S

H  M  S  B

So you start with the Moss, adding a Scale both to the right side and to the bottom, then move onto that right Scale and add a Bobble to the right.

However, the Scale and Bobble on the top row DO NOT want to join to the Bobble and Honeycomb in the second row, neither do those two want to join to the Honeycombe and Moss in the third row - these two 'holes' are designed for putting the car seat buckle/clip through.  (unless you choose not to have that feature!)

Edging
SR8 - short row 8... K8, turn and K6, turn and K4, turn and K3, turn and  K2, turn and K5

Choosing your main colour, pick up stitches from one side of the blanket. The exact number is not important; aim for 40 but if its 30 or 60 the only thing that affects is how ruffly it is.

row 1 - KFB, knit to last stitch, KFB
row 2 - YO, K2TOG
row 3 - KFB, knit to last stitch, KFB
(now count how many stitches you have, divide by 8, minus 2 then divide the remainder by 2 and make this '#' below)
row 4 - KFB, K# [K8, SR8] to last stitch, K#, KFB
row 5 - knit and cast off

Repeat for each edge, and matress stitch the angled corners.

Colours
I really really wanted to make this beautiful colours and had in mind unisex greens and purples, but the mother I was knitting this for requested white or cream. So, as mothers know best, I did it so. I was keen to make it slightly 'textured' in terms of a contrast for the checker effect, so picked a white and a cream.  The honeycomb and scale are in shade 0303 and moss and bobble in shade 0344.  There are so many different colour ways you could do, or keep it simple.  Would love to see all the variations.

North Harding Cowl

Following a random ball purchase on holiday - you know the "ooh that's nice, I have absolutely no ideas what to do with it but I'll get it anyway" - I ended up with one lovely ball of chunky yarn and a desire for knitting a scarf or cowl that all take several balls, so I had to improvise! The cowl will take 30 - 40g of yarn plus tassels if desired.

Using 7mm circular needles and a bulky yarn (I used Louisa Harding Rossetti, or Debbie Bliss Riva)

Cast on 86 stitches
Knit, join into round knitting last stitch together with first stitch
round 2 - purl
round 3 - K1, YO, to end
round 4 - P1, slip YO off needle, to end
round 5 - knit
round 6 - P1, 2YO, to end
round 7 - K1, slip YOs off needle, to end
round 8 - purl
round 9 - K1, YO, to end
round 10 - P1, slip YO off needle, to end
round 11 - knit
round 12 - P2TOG and slip stitch back onto left needle. Repeat until one stitch remains, thread yarn through and pull taught.  This creates a loose cast off.

Wrap around neck twice to wear.  If desired, you  can add tassels, cut 84x 6inch strips of yarn, use 3 to form tassel every 3rd stitch on cast on row (when worn doubled up this will be top row so look double sided).

Teeny Tiny Pixie Mits

For a preemi or very newborn, some little pixie style mits to keep hands warm or face scratch free. If new hands are so teeny tiny the mits dont stay on then lace some ribbon or icord through the eyelets.

Using a slim DK (you know, the ones that say they are but you really wonder how!) and 3.5mm needles...

Cast on 20
rows 1-6 - K1 P1 to end
row 7 - K2TOG YO to end
row 8 - purl
row 9-14 - stocking stitch
row 15 - K3 K2TOG to end (if now you realise you forgot the last YO on row 7 then end with a K2 K2TOG instead!)
row 16 - purl
row 17 - repeat row 15
row 18 - purl
row 19 - K2 K2TOG to end
row 20 - purl
row 21 - knit
row 22 - purl
Thread yarn through remaining stitches and mattress stitch the seam.

Beach Hut Tea Cosy

When it's dreary outside, why not put on the kettle and basque in a quintessential British seaside themed cuppa.  Yarn over and knit two together through the back loop ridges create a simple wooden paneling effect on this beach hut tea cosy.

Using DK yarn and 4mm needles...

Front (make 2)

Cast on 33 in contrast colour (turquoise for me)
rows 1-4 - garter stitch
row 5 - change to main colour (pale blue for me) and knit
row 6 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 7 - [K2TOGtbl*] repeat to end
row 8 - purl
repeat rows 5-8 seven more times
row 37 - knit
row 38 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 39 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 31 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (31 stitches remain)
row 40 - P2TOG, P27, SSP
row 41 - SSK, K25, K2TOG
row 42 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 43 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 25 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (25 stitches remain)
row 44 - P2TOG, P21, SSP
row 45 - SSK, K19, K2TOG
row 46 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 47 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 19 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (19 stitches remain)
row 48 - P2TOG, P17, SSP
row 49 - SSK, K15, K2TOG
row 50 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 51 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 13 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (13 stitches remain)
row 52 - P2TOG, P9, SSP
row 53 - SSK, K7, K2TOG
row 54 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 55 - K2TOGtbl, K2TOGtbl, pass first stitch over, [K2TOGtbl] repeat 7 times, slip 2 to left needle, pass first stitch over second stitch, return remaining stitch to right needle. (7 stitches remain)
row 56 - P2TOG, P3, SSP
row 57 - SSK, K1, K2TOG
row 58 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 59 - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end (3 stitches remain)

Thread yarn through remaining stitches and pull tight.

* if you are struggling to get the needle through the right place, insert right hand needle as if to purl the YO and stitch, rotate over the top of the left hand needle clockwise, and it should sit ready to K2TOGtbl.  I find this circular wrap motion quicker.

Doors (make 4)

Cast on 10 using contrast colour (turquoise for me)
row 1 - knit
row 2 - [P1, sl1p] repeat to end
repeat rows 1 & 2 twelve more times
Cast off knitwise

Back (handle) (make 1)

Cast on 34 in contrast colour (turquoise for me)
rows 1-4 - garter stitch
row 5 - change to main colour (pale blue for me) and knit
row 6 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 7 - [K2TOGtbl*] repeat to end
row 8 - purl
repeat rows 5-7
row 12 - P17, turn leaving remaining 17 stitches on the needle to come back to later
repeat rows 5-8 six more times on those 17 stitches

Leave stitches on needle, cut yarn and return to remaining 17 stitches in row 12 and repeat rows 12 - 36 starting with the purl on wrong side.

row 37 - knit joining back together the two sides in one row
repeat rows 6-7
row 40 - purl and cast off



Back (spout) (make 1)

Cast on 34 in contrast colour (turquoise for me)
rows 1-4 - garter stitch
row 5 - change to main colour (pale blue for me) and knit
row 6 - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 7 - [K2TOGtbl*] repeat to end
row 8 - purl
repeat rows 5-7

row 12a - P17, turn leaving remaining 17 stitches on the needle to come back to later
row 13a - K2TOGtbl, K15
row 14a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 15a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 16a - P14, SSP
row 17a - K2TOGtbl, K13
row 18a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 19a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 20a - P12, SSP
row 21a - K2TOGtbl, K11
row 22a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 23a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 24a - P11, PFB
row 25a - KFB, K12
row 26a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 27a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 28a - P13, PFB
row 29a - KFB, K14
row 30a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 31a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 32a - P15, PFB
row 33a - knit
row 34a - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 35a - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 36a - purl

Leave stitches on needle, cut yarn and return to remaining 17 stitches in row 12 starting with the purl on wrong side continue as below.

row 12b - P17
row 13b - K15, K2TOG
row 14b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 15b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 16b - P2TOG, P14
row 17b - K13, K2TOG
row 18b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 19b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 20b - P2TOG, P12
row 21b - K11, K2TOG
row 22b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 23b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 24b - PFB, P11
row 25b - K12, KFB
row 26b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 27b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 28b - PFB, P13
row 29b - K14, KFB
row 30b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 31b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 32b - PFB, P15
row 33b - knit
row 34b - [sl1p, YO] repeat to end
row 35b - [K2TOGtbl] repeat to end
row 36b - purl


row 37 - knit joining back together the two sides in one row
repeat rows 6-7
row 40 - purl and cast off

Roof (make 1)

Cast on 35
row 1 - [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 2 - [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 3 - [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 4 - knit
row 5 - K2, P1 [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 6 - P2, K1 [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 7 - K2, P1 [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 8 - knit

repeat rows 1-8 four more times, ending on a row 7.

Slide knitting to end of needle and save for later.

Cast on 35 on the same needle as waiting knitting, and repeat pattern above (the wrong side will be reversed).

row 1 - [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 2 - [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 3 - [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 4 - purl
row 5 - P2, K1 [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 6 - K2, P1 [K5, P1] repeat to end
row 7 - P2, K1 [P5, K1] repeat to end
row 8 - knit

repeat rows 1-8 four more times, ending on a row 7.


Put your right sides together facing inwards and use a third needle to do a 3 needle bind off which will create a subtle coping tile.

Make Up
You might find it easiest if you block and starch the pieces (depends how tight and stiff your gauge is).

Sew the two doors onto each front, and put a button as the door handles.  Sew on any other embellishments you have made, such as the life belts or sea shells.

Mattress stitch the sides of the Back(Handle) to the Fronts, and the remaining sides of the fronts to the Back(spout).  This will give you a cube outline (and from my photo you will see why starching might be desired).

Sew roof tiles to edges of hut from the inside.  Star with the diagonal sides and finish with the back spout and handle sides - these will overlap a little bit so don't stitch edge to edge.

Weave in all ends, and voila!